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I usually twist the wires in line. It’s a bit difficult to explain but I‘ll try. I hold both wires in front of me, one coming from the left and the other from the right so the stripped bits overlap. Then I twist the wires around each other. The result is usually thinner than the original...

Would a TN-S earth be the same size as the L and N? If not I‘d say it has to be TN-C-S considering how similar the impedance is.

You twist the wires to keep them together while soldering, that’s it.

Continental hobs are usually set up for two phases and have two neutrals in a single ferrule. If you‘re in the Netherlands you split the neutrals, if you only have 1 phase you connect the two lives together. If the hob is supplied without a lead it comes with jumpers in the terminal box that do...

A mixed box with short pieces is probably the best bet. Shrink ratio of the cheapest stuff is usually 2:1 so if the entire lead is 5 mm you can use 8 mm tubing, 10 mm would probably just about work too. You‘ll also need a soldering iron. Unless you want to get deeper into electronics I‘d...

That’s SELV (extra-low voltage), which makes repairs easier. I‘d get some quality electronics solder with flux core (I like the Stannol stuff, it behaves almost exactly as the old lead-based stuff) and two sizes of heatshrink tubing, one for each individual core. Cut the cable at the break, slip...

These lights are all over the continent, 2x36 W/1200 mm tubes.

One scenario I could imagine: consumer unit relocation using a box with DIN rail connectors where the earth connectors are bonded to the DIN rail. In that case you could theoretically run singles from the new CU location to the old for all the L and N conductors but only one 10 mm2 CPC. Would...

I think I know the type you’re talking about but haven‘t seen it in a long time.

Exactly. They have a small tab on the bottom that touches the thread of a fully inserted lamp. The thread on the lamp holder is plastic or ceramic. Ceramic sockets can have metal threads but they‘re isolated from the supply too...

EU Edison sockets have had insulated threads (plastic or ceramic) since the 1960s, some even longer I think. US ones still have metal threads that are used as one of the contacts and even with the correct ES 26 lamps they leave a lot of lamp thread exposed. ES 27 lamps have longer threads, which...

If you want Wagos buy a pack of 5-ways and use as many ways as you need. The only advantage of using multiple types is saving space. And yes, you can use Wagos for the wires from the light too.

4 mOhm equals 0.004 Ohms, which is very close to what you found.

I was only referring to that one double socket mentioned in your last post. If you ever want to replace that, you can get UK sockets that fit the existing back boxes, presumably round boxes with holes for 3.2 mm sheet metal screws spaces 60 mm apart.

If you ever want to replace those sockets, some EU manufacturers offer 13 A grid modules as a drop-in replacement.

Yes, that should be fine.

Is the Schuko socket protected by a 10 or 16 A MCB?

Anything to be sold in Europe is required to work at a nominal voltage of 230 V +/- 10%, i.e. between 207 and 253 V. If the problem is actually caused by the voltage the light isn‘t fit for purpose.

Does the light strobe while it’s supposed to be on?

Traditionally, 2 or 5 A round pin sockets would have been used for this purpose. You could also have 13 A sockets on the lighting circuit, the worst thing that could happen is temporary darkness if someone decides to plug in a massive load. Considering how often blowing incandescent lamps...