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Repairing a partially broken wire?

A mixed box with short pieces is probably the best bet. Shrink ratio of the cheapest stuff is usually 2:1 so if the entire lead is 5 mm you can use 8 mm tubing, 10 mm would probably just about work too.

You‘ll also need a soldering iron. Unless you want to get deeper into electronics I‘d suggest a cheap generic 30 W iron with something like a 5 mm chisel tip. A decent iron stand helps too.
well now, why exactly will i need a soldering iron? Given what was said above, it sounds like i could just cut the wire, strip it, twist the ends together, and reseal in these heatshrink tubes. In that case presumably the twisting and the tube would hold things together, and no soldering is needed?
 
Given what was said above, it sounds like i could just cut the wire, strip it, twist the ends together, and reseal in these heatshrink tubes. In that case presumably the twisting and the tube would hold things together, and no soldering is needed?
Where was that said?
 
well now, why exactly will i need a soldering iron? Given what was said above, it sounds like i could just cut the wire, strip it, twist the ends together, and reseal in these heatshrink tubes.

No:

Cut the cable at the break, slip the big heatshrink over one end, strip about 20 mm of each core, add 25 mm of small heatshrink, twist the ends together facing each other so you get a straight run of cable again, solder and add heatshrink.
 
You twist the wires to keep them together while soldering, that’s it.
 
You twist the wires to keep them together while soldering, that’s it.
Ruins the profile of the wire for heat shrinking though. I prefer to bend each wire to a u shaped hook, hook the ends together and press them to an inline profile then solder them
Or, tin each one with solder individually, then join them by reheating when adjacent. This way they lie adjacent

Trim off any sharp points, heat shrink over

I heat shrink each inner core then one over the whole lot
 
Ruins the profile of the wire for heat shrinking though. I prefer to bend each wire to a u shaped hook, hook the ends together and press them to an inline profile then solder them
Or, tin each one with solder individually, then join them by reheating when adjacent. This way they lie adjacent

Trim off any sharp points, heat shrink over

I heat shrink each inner core then one over the whole lot
Joints are supposed to be electrically and mechanically sound before soldering.

I realise a single lamp is not the most demanding load.
 
I usually twist the wires in line. It’s a bit difficult to explain but I‘ll try. I hold both wires in front of me, one coming from the left and the other from the right so the stripped bits overlap. Then I twist the wires around each other. The result is usually thinner than the original insulation either side so with some heatshrink it’s quite sleek.
 
Joints are supposed to be electrically and mechanically sound before soldering.
In which case the U method or the inline twist would be appropriate - U's easier but slightly fatter. In this context any soldered joint is going to be stronger than the surrounding wire, so I wouldn't have a particular concern regarding adequacy of eventual mechanical security whatever the method. If, in the impossibly remote chance the wire heated up to a point that the solder melted, then he consequences for the joint pale into insignificance coated to the consequences for the house when the sheathing sets on fire

For this particular application I think the OP should just get an inline rocker switch and use that, cutting the wire where it is broken. Whether it's ever used as a switch, doesn't matter so much..

..but i acknowledge it's a great opportunity to learn a new useful skill
 
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Ruins the profile of the wire for heat shrinking though. I prefer to bend each wire to a u shaped hook, hook the ends together and press them to an inline profile then solder them
Or, tin each one with solder individually, then join them by reheating when adjacent. This way they lie adjacent

I would suggest, that method makes for a very weak joint, heavily reliant on the solder not to fracture. Any joint should be both mechanically strong, and electrically low resistance, before the solder is applied.

The method, that I consider the officially taught method, is....

Strip each wire by an equal amount, had the heatshrink, then twist both wires together. Then solder, but only at the edges, close to the insulation, leaving the middle of the twist dry/untinned. Then slide the heatshrink on, and shrink it. The idea is, that not tinning the middle, allows the flex to retain much of it's original flexibility - unlike the fully tinned method, which produces a more easily fractured, rigid joint.
 
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Have we established exactly where the break is?
I have had a couple of similar lights fail. (Amazon)

It’s possibly easier to break open the in line controller (probably just a snap fit) to expose the circuit board .
Then cut the damaged cable back towards the lamp and resolder direct to the board.
Obviously this will shorten the cable. But it’s a better fix in most cases.

Option two (if the break is close to the lamp) is to do the fix and epoxy the join onto the lamp base to hold everything firmly.
That could be done with simple wago types meaning no soldering and something like Sugru to enclose it
 
well thats a fascinating solution, but i wonder if this lamp may be too complex for it, due to the multiple kinds of logic going on from the little box

Also, maybe its just me, but it smacks of oversimplified ease, like shelves that come with a "no drilling" advertisement, but sticking them on ends up being drastically inferior to drilling proper mounting holes. I don't want to use an inferior solution to avoid learning how to do the job right, if thats what this is

i'm here for the learning as much as for actually fixing this thing

can anyone advise about the soldering kit i linked?
 

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