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I've seen something like that before. Thanks. Purchased. I'll see how much i can balls this one up :( lol

Thanks. Since it costs me nothing to ask ... how exactly do you use them? I see it says you drill a pilot hole in, so i guess fairly small drill bit. Then do you use these things by hand or power drill? I'm guessing by hand - just connect in to your screwdriver & try to unscrew as normal?

It's next week before I can get in touch with the guy who did the job so I'm just asking here in the meantime. Basically in February we had a multi fuel stove fitted. The hearth is black limestone flags. I've come to paint up the living room & so covered everything, including the hearth...

6 hinges, 3 screws per hinge. None were great but all came out ... bar this one... I've tried putting a stack of pressure on there & going real slow with a PZ2. I tried hammering a flathead in there. I tried hammering a torx bit in there .... ruined both of those bits. How to get this...

Sorry for the few threads lately. I know it'll annoy some. It just seems that for every problem i get past there's another one waiting & i'm a little stuck as to what to do. The walls have been tanked to 1.5m & boarded. This was December 2015. The chimney breast was done (boarded) around March...

Suspended wooden floor And nope, no pipes there. The hairdryer also didn't do anything. What about that Zinsser Bullseye 123? I had a look and at first i thought Zinsser BIN but the 123 looks more promising. I've experienced the BIN & it's good, but i'm not convinced it's the best thing...

Ah i can confirm that there's no stud cornering here then. I'll get the hair dryer on it & take a see. What should be done regards painting it though?

Oh right, well the ceiling was done by the first set of guys too & the plasterwork for that appeared no different to the plasterwork they did on the walls & the ceiling has covered (paint) perfectly fine so i'm not worried about that. It's the beads & how to treat them that i'm concerned about...

I remember asking about the bead being left like that on a plastering forum some years ago after the very first job as i was concerned about it. I was told, unanimously, that i was overreacting & that you shouldn't plaster over the nose of the bead. And now it should be? At any rate, what...

Having filled cracks that have appeared, there's nothing for fill to actually stick to with this. The plaster over the bead is smooth - you can't feel the bead at all. It's just the markings where the holes in the beads are. I've had 3 plasters at the house. The first 2 left beads like you saw...

I personally did all of the above ^^ I was/am a total novice with this water based stuff though & for large flat areas i found the roller method the easiest by far. I'm not saying it's the best method, just what i found easiest. :)

We deal with a local timber supplier & they can do 4x2 rough sawn tanalised no problem. However it's actually 100-x-50 but even then it really isn't when you measure it. Depending on how anal you are about your measurements (and i can be quite anal) it's more like 97-x-47. The regularised...

Roller is a Wooster Pro Doo-Z one. Paint that was being used was Dulux Trade Super Matt On the back of what you've said then i guess i was either loading it up too much, rollering too fast or probably more likely - it was too thin. When i took off the extension pole & did a wall by hand the...

Exact same as I did. Basically i got one of those mini foam rollers & did it like that. I found the paint dried out too quickly by brush & i didn't want to smother it, so i rollered it & then laid off. Sure a professional would've no doubt got less brush strokes left than i did but i got way...

I had this problem too & found that it was always paint drying on the lid. I found metal lids to be the worst. So what i did was when i opened up a tin, i would wash the lid. Totally clean of any paint whatsoever. I'd dry the lid out totally. Then when i put it back on - no bits. If i ever...

So i'm in the process of painting the walls and ceiling of the living room. When i'm painting the ceiling, there's a very fine mist of paint that splats the nearby walls, sometimes bigger droplets. Right now it doesn't really matter because it'll all get covered the same. However eventually...

Is it as simple as just putting the wallpaper on or does the walls being painted cause a problem? I'm not convinced we'll be able to have our walls painted without trouble - blotches etc etc, so I've a funny feeling we're going to have to wallpaper. The idea was to mist coat & then give it 1...

Just did some research in to the gardz. Apparently it dries rock hard & is 'like a glue'. With us having damp problems (even though everything has been tanked & should be fine) i wonder if applying such a thing would be a good idea? Does the wall need to 'breathe'? I know i'm risking sounding...

This is the problem to be honest - i don't really want to spend time/money painting a 7mtr-x-4mtr living room & then a hall only to find i'm wasting that time & money. Regarding the gardz .... do you need to do anything with it? 1) Do you apply it direct to bare plaster (as in would the paint...

Well i've been sanding & wiping down with a damp cloth & the strange marking is still showing through. I don't know whether wiping down with a damp cloth is a fair indication as to the condition of the wall but i'm hesitant to get a load of paint all over the room only to find out 80% of it was...