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I tend to use Dulux supermatt and thin it out a bit with water, always goes on lovely.

Is the leylands you used a matt emulsion rather than silk? Just checking! It's very likely to be the F&B, and they will never admit any fault if you didn't use their primer.

45x70 it is then. Thanks. One more question. The edge of the board that is parallel to the joist had to be cut flush with a wall, as it disappeared underneath. Replacing this board would obviously leave a loose edge. As far as I can tell, my options are: a) Try to hack the piece of board out...

Thanks guys. I can't move the pipe easily as part of the length is within the cavity of a finished room, and its nowhere near the joist. I'll give the noggin / lagging idea a spin.

I've found a long horizontal run of copper pipe in my house in a cavity floor, parallel to the joist but not near it. It is not supported at all, and probably runs for 3m. I imagine its been that way for 25 years or more, but I don't have an exact date when the downstairs wc was added that it...

I have to fit some noggins where I had to cut the tongue off a (ply) board to gain access to the cavity. I was going to use 45x95 c16. Is this ok? Are there any regs around the timber I should be using? Edit: Actually I've got some leftover 45x70 I could use. Is that adequate?

Nice one thanks! Edit: Should there be a cavity closer fitted in this situation?

Thanks John, I think I understand most of that. I've fixed the lead fixed already, I just wasn't sure if there should be some additional insurance if it fails, to avoid the water coming thru the plasterboard on the frame head. I'll get that lintel turned around and use timber/foam to fill the...

Thanks for the response. I've included a photo of the side of the frame with the reveal plasterboard removed. As you can see, the frame is fixed to the timber frame, and the old external brickwork now forms the internal wall of the extension. This is as good as I can do on the head due to...

Hopefully I'm ok to bump this as it's been a few days. Anyone got any knowledge they can share? Should this be in the building forum?

Is that new switch metal? Can we see a pic of the front?

If you've got a brick wall in the mix, personally I'd moisture board it and tank it. Yes it is possible for moisture to go thru grout, thru adhesive, thru aquapanel, and onto whatever is behind it. This normally happens more with high-pressure showers and small-format tiles (more grout lines)...

Tanking plasterboard should be fine, if you do it correctly then no water can penetrate into the plasterboard. Correctly being the key word - any small gaps would result in wet plasterboard, and wet plasterboard tends to fall apart. I've done rooms with aquapanel cement board and not tanked...

Is this area going to get wet? I assume it's a shower as you've mentioned tanking?

My house has a pre-existing single-story extension on the side. A doorway has been knocked thru the previously external wall to give access from the kitchen to the extension. The house itself is timber frame with brick skin. Above this doorway there is an L-shaped steel lintel in the brickwork...

Probably depends on the adhesive used. It's normally not too bad to get the top tile off starting gently with a scraper from an exposed edge (doorway?), but then you have the bottom tile covered in adhesive. If you are lucky, this will gradually scrape off after being soaked in warm soapy water...

I've got an mdf panel I knocked up and painted with oil-based paints. No kids or dogs here so not a huge amount of splashing, but the panel is as sound as the day I fitted it 3 years ago. One downside with everything else being water-based in the room is that it's started to yellow a little. As...

Been too tight since I moved here tbh, don't think its changed. The edge brackets have got clear score marks where the pins struggle to slot home.

Yeah I was also hoping for a hex key... no joy with the pliers, they don't move.

One pic of the frame and one of the sash.