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My concern is an aging heating system failing, a pipe bursting, thawing, and a leak going unnoticed for months. If I get an alarm message warning the house has hit 5C say, then I can call out a heating engineer to investigate.

So I thought it was time to get round to repainting the garage door. There was a little patch of rot left to me by the previous owners, so I thought just pick out the loose stuff, bit of wood filler, job done. But the firm wood was further away than I'd thought and ended up with this Height...

The insurance requires the house to be heated to 12C from 1/11 to 31/3

No intention of adding solar heating. Question was about whether heating engineers consider the level of house insulation.

Actually both look interesting, thanks. The next thing I was thinking I'd have to source is a SIM that didn't cost an arm and a leg and come packed with features I'd never use. The first device solves that straight up.

I've inherited a 3 bed detached house with a conventional boiler fitted in 1999. Current beast provides heating to the house and heats up a hot water tank. Now time to think about a major refurb over the next couple of years and the order to do things. The plan will be to replace the boiler...

Ok, probably the wrong forum for this but ... I may have need to monitor the temperature in a house and be alerted if it becomes too cold. There is no wifi or phone line, so the alert would need to be via a text message. There is mains power. It is unlikely the house will be visited for 4 or 5...

Just pondering the potential future use of my late mother's house which will be modernised before renting it out or maybe selling. The electrical installation was adequate for one little old lady living in it, but I expect the future will involve a family. We keep being told the future is EV so...

I could also put a 100mA type S RCD downstream of both DBs to protect the wiring.

DB4 has 4 circuits connected; 2 lighting, 2 sockets. DP isolator it is then.

So ... what shall I add in? Big cable comes in and feeds DB5. Tails come out, through the meter, and supply DB4. I'm going to replace the meter and tails, but I'd like to be able to isolate DB4 separately. I'm thinking I'll put a DP 100A isolator in between DB5 and the meter. However, as...

My money is on failing elements. But I'll just throw it out there; the RCD is rated 63A and it has three B32s plus the rest. Could there be a risk of overloading the RCD? Oh, and lovely to see a well labelled CU. :)

Just had a timely email from Wylex technical support - "Wylex RCD’s can be feed top or bottom". So, that's one manufacturer down, just 99 more to go :)

So for your device, the the manufacturer had marked the casing indicating an in and out, so direction mattered. Was your RCD possibly a RCBO? They are asymmetric and can only be fitted one way round in a CU. Just a thought.

I'm still going to go with "doesn't matter". If it mattered surely it would be clearly labeled so the manufacturer could avoid liability from incorrect use.

Surely to need power after tripping negates the principle of failing safe? I also think if supply/load mattered, they'd all be labelled to avoid manufacturer liability.

Not a fan of fiddly Wago blocks and boxes. I'm a Hager J803 box convert. No faffing about with cable ties - seal is built in. Just thought I'd throw that in.

In a domestic CU the live bus bar is at the bottom.

I don't think so. The protection circuit monitors the L N bus bars in the module and flicks the switch if a fault is detected. The protection circuit doesn't care after that if it is powered or not; it has done it's job.

Taylortwocities is correct according to the testing regs. AV folk like clean earth because they fear feedback from earth loop induction. 13A sockets which use T shaped earth pins in their plugs require a separate clean earth. The metal back box is connected to CPC. If you find one in a house...