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I have a rad which is on a drop down leg, I need to drain this part to work on the system. I presume I just need to tie ball valve up, use the drain cock on the rad in question and vent rad as normal drain, refill and bleed?

Thanks, would you say this is the minimum anyone should be doing, or is this very thorough.

I have laid a patio before to a good standard but I want to know if the following would be OK. I understand finished level should be 150mm below dpc, but I have a decent concrete base to come off, rather than dig out and type 1, can I go over and put aco drains around the permiter so it...

Yeah I put you right there. I think the previous owner had a go. I don't mind doing it but I want to be thorough and do a proper job. So it's a bit of a mix, one wall is solid and a joins the house next door, the two two others are stud. Doesn't look like the plaster has been sealed, it seems...

I need to retile my shower room, the shower has been leaking as water is penetrating the back of the tile through the grout and pulling the tiles off the bottom of the wall where it meets the tray. I have tiled a concrete floor before which was fine, is this a big job? It's three walls incl...

Yeah it will be a long term thing otherwise it means repair to the roof, I will buy a plug for the top then, many thanks for all your help.

Thanks for the advice chaps. I have a push fit McAlpine Vp50, unfortunately the reviews look terrible but I didn't buy it my builder did...

I have a AAV that my builder got for me, thats a durgo valve right? is it just a push fit item after the cut has been made?

Hi, I just need to ask, can I cut this soil stack down, just above where the existing connections have been made then stick a durgo on top (think they are just push fit? it needs to be out the way for a plasterer next week.

Thanks, grinding down is a possibility but what would I use for that? I found a manual 20 grit sanding block but I would imagine I would be at it for hours with that! any other way would cause a ton of dust?

OK that's good to hear, but how would you approach tiling this, where would you start?

Hi, I have had my floor self levelled twice but it's still not dead level. Between the high and low spots the floor is about 10mm out of level. All other areas of the floor are within around 5mm How would you go about tiling this? Just start from the high spots and try and taper down to the low...

Is it just this I need ...

That's a good shout, when you say fit it with a female cup what product do you mean? Also the builder got a durgo valve to cap the soil stack on the inside so we could lower the soil stack and still use it for sink and dishwasher waste. Presumably this is irrelevant to the capping of the top?

It was topps tiles self smoothing compound. Not entirely sure of thickness but probably around 3mm ish. Do you think it would be a good idea to dilute sbr 4:1 and paint the floor with it, I'm thinking if It seeps within the cracks it will hold it all together to prevent future damage.

One area was tiled, primer used was put on neat. Other area is screed which had fully dried, but the second attempt went over the compound that had already been laid over the screen from the first attempt. I would imagine the primer was diluted for the more porous areas.

Not sure of thickness, but it doesn't sound like it's blown. Not hollow

It's hard to touch, feels like very hard plastic

Hi I recently had a tiler round to self level my kitchen floor. It cracked within days and blew from the subfloor so he came back and scraped up the levelling compound then did it again.. Part of the floor that has been self levelled over is tiles the other part is screed (been dry for a long...

That's the roof