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I have a 10mm notched trowel for this job, my tiles are flat so need to be pretty dead on. I did PVA then realised that PVA isn't a very good thing to use before tiling after research!

The floor drops to one side by about 5mm across the run, would more adhesive level this out?

I did run a level on the floor and it's dead level all the way across, I think this is just a high spot. I did dig out the floor for radiator pipework and filled the channel in, maybe it's this that has unlevelled the floor slightly. But to be honest I scraped the floor either side of the chanel...

It really isn't by much, but enough to make me nervous. I'm concerned about creating a run, then getting to that point and it's sitting proud of the other tiles once level!

Im tiling directly to a concrete floor, I have dry laid the tiles but I noticed one or two are sitting slightly proud of the others or are rocking if I press them either side. Will a normal bed of tile adhesive allow much tolerance to account for this or should I just self level the whole floor...

Totally agree with that, our previous bathroom grout lines looked horrible. I guess 3mm will be ok it's only 1mm difference and down to personal preference by the sounds of it.

Ok will dry lay first. When you say small cuts in the doorway do you meaning utility leading to dining room or W.C leading to utility? Also, with those size tiles would you use 3mm spacers, or is it personal preference? I have 3mm but could get different ones. With regards to the adhesive I...

Many thanks for that. I would probably lay them in a brick pattern, would you still start with 120mm cut off 1 and 3 in the first row?

I would imagine the right way would be the way the kitchen is laid, although the kitchen will be a different floor (still tiled) so as you look from the dining room into the utility they would run longways (vertical). Units are not fitted yet nor white goods. there is a slight area where...

Is this OK?

Sure thing, will measure all of it and post a plan up later. Doors are 30".

Any, ideas guys?

OK will get a pic of that!!

Morning! Tiles are 300x600. Overall area is 1500 x 2800mm approx Sink/toilet measurements are below

I think all the pumps and valves are hidden in a cabinet in the garage next to the boiler.

I need some advice from you guys on tiling. Never done it before and need to tile the floor of both utility and w.c area. My builder said tile the W.C before he fits it. Couple questions: 1. Where do I start in terms of layout I know normally you start from the centre of the room but here...

No worries! No pump in the airing cupboard. I believe the pump is in the garage next to the boiler. Need a pic of that??

Yes I wouldnt alter the valves on the hallway rad, they would stay the same. It's more of a faff to me to start adding extra parts to the system, having said that it depends on how easy the autobypass valve is to install and how easy it is to get other pipes over to this wall, someone maybe...

Any ideas guys? the reason I want to use this pipework is 1. it needs to be moved anyway and 2. the nearest pipe that I can tee off is across the other side of the room and I'm concerned the run will be too long for that size of rad. I just need to know that as the new rad will be first on...

I understand that makes sense, so this is my bypass. If I used the pipework that supplies the hallway rad and divert to a kitchen radiator first, then T off that back to the hallway rad that would work? If I didn't want the rad to heat when the hot water is turned on in the summer then I could...