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Point taken, that’s that’s just a small area, most of the remainder is fine. So would any caulk behind the skirting normally be painted the same colour as the skirting?

Whats the rule when painting the caulk between skirting boards and the wall? Should the caulk be seen as being part of the wall, and painted with the wall colour paint, or should it be seen as part of the skirting and painted with the same paint as the skirting?

Can it be purchased in easily applied tubes like caulk is, for applying to long lengths of skirting?

So, anyone able to recommend a good paintable caulk?

I shall be trying No Nonsense caulk from Screwfix/B&Q as it has good reviews and is paintable.

Skirting is now fitted. I used an angle/bevel guide and a set square to measure the internal angles under the bay window... I then cut them on the mitre saw.. Where joints where each piece of plaster board met under the bay window had been refunded off by the plasterer so there wasn't...

Thanks, I understand that now. If say the angle in the bay window is 160 deg, then I need to half that figure (80 degs) to get the angle to cut of each piece of skirting (taken from the rear of the skirting board).

Thanks, could you explain why the cut would be 10 deg please? Im trying to get my head around the maths of the cutting angles.

Im about to fit new MDF skirting which is almost identical to the original I've removed, and I'm happy with cutting the external 90 deg miter cuts, and with scribing the internal 90 deg cuts, but... I have a bay window made up of approx 160 deg angles, I could just do mitre cuts and fill any...

Which hand saw is best for cutting MDF? I've got some 7" skirting to cut, and whilst I have a coping saw for scribing where needed, I was wanting to buy a hand saw for doing the remainder of the cutting. Is there a best type of hand saw?

Just make sure you wear protective clothing as I always do..

Well the Zinnser BIN didn't really work. Three more coats of paint and the marks could still be seen. I then had some Johnstones paint mixed to the same colour, two coats covered the marks perfectly. So I think it was mostly down to using crap B&Q paint.

Ive applied 2 coats of Zinnser BIN over the affected area, so hopefully this will hide the problem once I've given a few more coats of the BnQ paint.

Im wondering if its a paint problem, or a plaster problem? Its a retail paint, and maybe not up to the quality of a decent trade paint? Ive heard that Ostendorf now supply BnQ with their retail paint, and not Johnstons as it used to be. Maybe it just doesn't have the qualities to cover properly?

Ive got a problem with the paint on our newly re-plastered living room wall. We've recently had the living room re-plastered, the walls were boarded over, skimmed and allowed to dry. I then put a mist coat of paint over the new plaster (watered down paint) followed by two coats of paint. As...

Stand them in a tub of wood preserver, or how about used engine oil?

I shall have to find time to get those photos on Flickr and repost them.

True, but his post broke at ground level so had nothing to act as a lever.

Another alternative it to chock it against the wall with a piece of timber during the winter. But that would rely upon having no wind during the summer, and you remembering chock it in the winter. When its delivered stand it upright and try and push it over. If its rock solid then you should be...

I dont like those spiked Metposts, they never seems o hold well. I recently installed a fence along a friends garden, he was happy for me to use spiked Metposts as he was soon to be selling his house to a house builders as part exchange for a new build, so just wanted the cheapest method of...