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Thanks Flameport. So just loop the stat in between the 2 port valve and control centre via terminal 1 and 2. I got a 16A circuit for the immersion linked water heater switch on the landing then to a fused spur which i had planned to connect the immersion to. So does this need changing to a 20A...

Traditional roof as below

The plumber has temporarily wired up my central heating system to give me hot water and heating. He has wired an S-Plan system as requested but i have noticed he hasn't ran the hot water via the cylinder thermostat so at the moment the boiler heats the water I the cylinder when the programmer...

Hi I want to install a new loft hatch over the next few days. Its bigger than the existing and I want to move it slightly. Is the below the correct way to go about it and is sistering a new timber to the existing as shown required?

I will disconnect and move the ferrit up and the neutral along to terminal 4. Hopefully that will give me enough room to loop the earth in and sit the clamp fully on the sheath. It's very tight at the clamp end due to the ferrit taking up almost the full width of the cavity.

Thanks for all the help. All connected. Christmas lunch is back on again

Thanks for the responses on the arch query. I assumed it couldn't but just wanted to double check before closing it up

Also I know there were concerns raised about the cable terminations. Does the below look correct. The earth had to be looped up as it was slightly long but I didn't want to cut and ferrel but rather Ed to keep the original ferrel on. Does it all look OK before I connect to the supply

Links have turned up and fit nicely. With them being exposed is there not a risk of L and N jumping (is this arcing) between terminal 3 and 4?

Are the ferrite beads the same as the blocks on laptop chargers? Am I reading correctly that they just stop chatter noise between the wires. Are they always positioned at the end of the run. If so what is the reason for this

Thanks for all the help. The cable was just laid out temporarily to allow me to work out how the links go. The ferrels sit between the metal plate and the screw. The fit is exact, I couldn't see them moving even if the screws became lose. I will be removing and terminating all wires correctly...

No links found. I was having a look at it again tonight and can't see how those copper links would fit in. Surely they wouldn't expect "home made" links. Photos below A separate question is what is this box arround the supplied power cable. It looks like it's a magnet that surrounds the...

New deck going on top. Old boards have seen better days and will be used as access routes in the loft

Really? That makes life easier for me. Plastic packers glued to fill the gap between the joist and wall plate? or is timber better? The issue is only where it meets the extension as the floor level in there was set to match the original (which i am now pulling out). Can I set this end to match...

Just revisiting this as i have finally got round to needing to order these replacement joists. I have had the old floor boards up and the original joists are 4x2's with sleeper walls ever 1.5-2m across the span. I spoke to the local timber supplier and they will happily cut down some 5x2's to...

Spoke to Miele. They said they should have been in the box and are sending out replacements.

I assume these are what i should be looking for?

I will double check again but i couldn't see them earlier. If that is the case do i just strip some cable of the same size as the supply crimp a ferrel to each end and insert to bridge the connectors or are there special links to be used?

Thanks. That makes sense. Would the links normally be supplied with the hob?

My new hob turned up and it had a connection plate on it that i have not seen before. It had 5 terminals plus an earth. The supplied wiring diagrams as below; I assume the 3rd option would be the one i use? Are they just links between 1-2-3 with the live being connected to 2 and then 4-5...