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Hi all, I have a socket (underground) which I need to connect onto. It appears to be made of black plastic & has an ID of approx 130mm/5". So I need something, i.e. a length of pipe, adapter, etc, with has a similar OD to connect into it (I'm eventually connecting it to a standard gully with a...

Hi all, We live an old Edwardian property that was converted into four flats many years ago. Myself & the owner of the ground floor flat have an outside tap each (The gardens are quite big, so these taps are freestanding, i.e. not mounted to the main building or anything). The single main...

Yeah, I think I misinterpreted that :oops: ... Anyhow, I got my money back on the motor & head/actuator, no probs. After a quick lesson on how to use a multimeter from my mate, I found that there was no live coming from the "CH on" programmer wire. Took the facia off the programmer, and...

It was a freebie. A mate gave it to me when he bought a new one. Thought it might come in handy one day. D'oh! Yeah, didn't think of that :oops: Anyway, turns out it's not the motor, or in fact the two port valve at all... Just popped out & bought some bits - changed the motor, nothing...

Unwired the motor & did a continuity test using a multimeter. Each time, it quickly flashes up a reading somewhere between 500-2000, then goes back to 1 very quickly. No audible beep... Testing the multimeter on other metal objects produces a beep every time & a 1-500 reading. I guess it's the...

Hi, the boiler doesn't fire when I open it manually either... I've taken the cover off the two port & there's definitely no movement when the CH is switched on. However, if I push the brass arm across to the microswitch internally, it fires, pump kicks in too. Does this point to the motor?

Thanks, is there any way I can tell whether it's the motor or microswitch at fault? Or should I just replace the cheapest component first & see if that works? Also, until it's fixed, is it okay to manually open the two port to provide me with some CH while the HW is on?

Hi all, I've changed the batteries & re-synced the RF roomstat, which all did as it's meant to. Other than that, nothing - no lights on the boiler, pump doesn't kick in, no movement on the motorised valve (The HW works fine - boiler, pump, etc). Any ideas?... My system is as follows: •...

Sorry, my understanding is that a Surrey flange was too restrictive for a whole house pump & I don't see how a Warix flange differs. Thanks for the tip, why is this?

Didn't realise there would be air in the HWC. I assumed the water level on the hot side would be the same as in the CWS tank, i.e. somewhere way up in the F&E pipe-? Thanks, but from a quick google the Warix looks very similar to a Surrey flange. I'm guessing it's less restrictive somehow-...

Hi all, I have a Stuart Turner Monsoon 3 bar pump which sits at the base of my HWC. When I originally fitted the pump, I just plumbed it straight into the existing H&C feeds for convenience - knowing that I'd have the opportunity to alter it later (This weekend, I'm redoing most of the...

Thanks for replying :) I assumed that cork was used in order to "take up" any expansion in the flooring-? What's the purpose of the thresholds? Presumably it's so that if one room gets badly damaged, I don't have to lift the entire floor throughout-? Or is there another reason? Most of...

Hi all :) I'm installing a floating floor using 15mm T&G engineered oak over existing floorboards. I'm using cork expansion strips round all the edges (which will then be covered by the skirting boards). Should I run a bead of PVA down the groove of each new board or leave it? (If it makes a...

Apologies for raising the dead, but I thought it might be useful to respond incase this thread pops up again in a search or something... Anyway, I'm pleased to say that after a little trial & error, it all worked out nicely :) As suggested, I tried splaying the stud to make my own rag bolts...

Okay, I think I've found the studding > www.toolstation.com/shop/p26973. Still not sure how I'm going to guarantee it won't spin in the concrete with just nuts & washers, but I'll give it a go!... Maybe I could drill a hole through some kind of metal plate & use that as a large washer for each...

Are these rag bolts? If so, it might be easier to do what you've done & make my own, as I doubt there'll be any available locally. So would a (large) regular nut, bolt & washer such as either of these do the trick > www.toolstation.com/shop/p10853 or www.toolstation.com/shop/p10322 ?

Thanks John. Regarding the rag bolts, are either of these the sort of thing you mean > www.toolstation.com/shop/p22455 or www.toolstation.com/shop/p92665 ? Okay, will do. In your experience, how long does a lump like that take to set? Thanks again, Ben :)

Afternoon all :) I've had a wooden fence post blow over (it broke off at ground level). I've gunned quite a bit of the concrete base out & the remaining section of post is completely soaking/rotten. Unfortunately, because it's a shared fence, I'm obliged to put a matching wooden post back in...

Thanks Richard, that should help me talk the wife out of going for mosaics :wink: Yes, I was planning to tile the edge. An alternative would be to fit some kind of skirt/scotia round it & then mitre it into the skirting board along the front of the chimney breast. Right, time to get...

Duly noted. On eBay she goes :wink: If we're not using the granite hearth, the missus would prefer a tiled hearth using the same tiles we're getting for the fireplace - which is fine by me. However, to get the tiles level with the back hearth, I need to build the hearth up by at approx 65mm...