Search results

u really need to find some one who can do some calcs on this. i have seen books in the library which would help - depends how technical u are. otherwise u'll need a belt & braces job and it will probably end up costing more in the long run. for me the blockwork wall is no no and concrete...

csrt's idea is also good - i think u might even get away with nailing the chicken wire depending on how good the brick mortar is (something like clout nails).

view above in loft space for info. [/img]

make sure u use a piece of string or line to keep them in line and level. the line needs to be over the full length and taught/held (by bricks at each end) just above the coarse being laid.

silicon bead sounds good. i also use decorators caulk (mainly around laminate) - find it easier to work with and just as good - worth considering yes threshold is where tiles meet carpet. i've not seen any that are flexible. as long as the tile is higher than the carpet then the carpet can...

will get a better pic inside the loft area. this gives the general gist - joist hangers showing in top left area. [/img]

sorry kilo. mack4 always pleased to get someone else’s view. i'd go for putting the skirting in 1st. file/cleanup the cut edges as much as poss then grout or use silicon as mack4 suggests. i say this as i don't believe u will be able to get a "flexible/profile" threshold to go over the...

this job went ahead and worked well woody thanks for your help - appreciated i had to take part of the ceiling down at it was latted and could not slide the hangers underneath. other than that spot on job. 3 off 11”x3” by 3.7m lg timber joists went into the loft which made things...

noseall is probably right (he usually is). i'm always terrified of getting even the slightest damp smell even accepting the damp itself is of no concern (being too small). consequently i would always repair it – given the effort is small. i would just use a thk piece of plastic as u...

i'm probably 98% certain thinking the 60cm will be fine. i've put a few kitchens in - all under building notice. the inspector's interest seems to be on the following: a) there is an extract (and to outside seems a fav) b) the capacity "extract rate" is >= 350 cub m / hr c) the height...

i read it that u have a blockwork wall and want to put a smooth surface on it. go for a render (3:1 plastering sand: cement). put in on in 2 coats 6mm thk in a wedge action and adding a light key between the coats. use a dry sponge in circular motion to level it out as it start to set.

i think the simple answer is knock off and start again. i would say the mortar mix used to put the render on was not strong enough - ie not enough cement. u might just get away with painting it with exterior masonry paint. i would try a section out of sight (or as best can be) and see how...

depends for me what's going where - if it's tiles on concrete and laminate on wood then just make sure the finished floor levels will be ok. if not then probably needs plywood putting down to provide a stable surface for the tiles.

absolutely necessary - no the trouble is the ceiling joists usually lie on the longest span where as the rsj's or wood joist's are generally at 90 deg and on the shortest span. u would need to do some calcs. given u have brickwalls below then u will be able to use split rsj's with...

i feel u will need to take up the existing or at least as much as u can. a blow torch and scraper will do it albeit hard work. i don't feel u will get the adhesion by simply scarifying. Arizona to uk does not seem a good trade off to get back into plumbing though

u could bed the blocks straight in the concrete - it's not normal practise - the mortar allows u to get the positioning right (line & level). the foundation at 100 deep x 300 wide is fine. if anything i would go 6" on the foundation but only if u think it needs it.

i hate timber battens. i think they look naff and i feel i'm doing the job twice. i would go for a good plasterboard fixing (something like screwfix 59210 - this type clamps itself against the plasterboard)

i think either the skirting boards need to go down before the tiling ie accept the tile cut edges will be visible or raise the carpeted areas of the plywood by putting hardboard or other thin board (mdf) under the plywood to bring it level with the tiled finish floor level ie so skirting can...

i'll have a think about it - it's not an easy one. coming to mind though - can u leave the skirting off - i leave it off in most kitchens for example. shaving the skirt does not look brill - but u may have too i don't feel the tile cut edge will stand out once grouted and would not be a...

well impressed Duzzer - fantastic job done well. i presume the good lady had a hand in the wallpaper though (and been watching too many TV house makeover programmes for me) :D