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10mm plastic is very useful in these situations.

You'll need to trim a bit, say 15mm, off the ends of the steel. You could check with the SE but it won't affect it structurally.

1.5mm EPDM. No joins required, although they sell stuff for patching and joining you can generally just fold the corners.

I've just fitted two of these - my walls are "turbo" blocks, even more Wheatabix than normal thermalites, with plasterboard foamed on. I used 12mm plywood squares, with a second piece where the screws will go so 24mm in total. Glued (Stixall)and screwed (normal brown plugs but you only get one...

What he said, looks a lot of weight to hang off a couple of single joists - I think this would be my main concern. Regarding the hangers, you could contact the Expamet technical department for advice, or even just show your builder the technical information which clearly shows that's not...

Thanks, yes it's dust, render, skim etc. I had to put some spit on the back to clean them up! I actually did all the wiring myself at the time, following the megaflo instructions, and understood how it all worked but that was a few years ago and it all looks like spaghetti to me now. Fortunately...

I've just fitted a Wiser Hub and Stat. What's the best way to get rid of the old stat in the wiring centre so my new thing still works (currently just turned up)? It's connected Gr - 2 and Br - 3 in the wiring centre, at the stat it's (from the left) Bl (N), Br and Gr. Thanks.

Mines not a modern boiler with any software, but there is a bypass valve on the heating system and there are two towel rails which I think are part of the circuit before it gets to the 2 port valves (so always on) - I don't think it will harm the boiler, just not be very efficient. I can't...

Slow set flexible with SBR primer works for me. Rapid Set is for tradesmen who do it in a day. Never understand why they sell so much in the DIY sheds without flagging it up - I just picture diyers mixing a bag full then having a cuppa and a bit of lunch before getting started.

Presumably you fit the door inside the upstand. Mines a 3 upstand (also cheap from eBay) but could have worked with a four.

I'm still toying with this. I've got the 2 channel hub and stat but haven't fitted yet as I think best to tidy up current wiring arrangements: Just a few questions in the meantime - firstly, if I'm coming round to the idea of smart TRV's in the 4 upstairs bedrooms (I actually thought you had...

I've just mist coated my self skimmed ceiling, which after some serious sanding is looking pretty good. I now have some small dents, pinholes and fine cracks on the board joints. Would a scrape of caulk or filler be better? I think caulk would avoid needing to sand the filler etc?

You can buy it for about £12 a bag and it sets in a few hours????

My guess would be a deck for the top floor - presumably that weird crows nest thing right at the top isn't working for them.

I meant in whatever is below the slab (should be MOT but who knows) just in case a sharp stone ends up next to the pipe . The depth of the slab is fine in concrete or whatever round the pipe. Unless you've found the secret of eternal life I doubt you'll need to replace mdpe.

I get what you're saying, but I don't want to hand control of my heating to an algorithm - unless it can understand that we heat the house on a budget and are prepared to forgo it being nice and toasty for when we get home because we're generally pretty active cooking etc for the first hour so...

Just been on a German Schneider wiser forum and found this reply - it relates to a question about using a heat switch for a towel rail but seems to confirm that you won't get anything out of the hub without a stat.

Thanks, I don't know whether to do this as a temporary measure or just keep that second valve on the old programmer until/if I can work out a way to get it on the hub and accept that I'll never have wireless control of it. I have seen that Drayton do a plug (at a ridiculous £50 of course) that...

Quite possibly - in my original post I said I simply wanted to replicate my existing system but with voice/phone activation. I'm perfectly happy with the way the upstairs works - the reality is that it's pretty well insulated and all it needs is 20 minutes in the morning and half an hour in the...

I've ordered this from Screwfix: They didn't have the 3 channel version in stock and it's silly prices elsewhere. So assuming I'm happy with the way it works I need to address the sub zone in the longer term - presumably by upgrading the 2 channel to a 3 channel - but I really don't want a...