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Yes. I think I'll just move it to the ceiling and then I can wire it up later anyway and negate this whole problem.

I was going to put it back on the wall, although I can’t remember why I chose that place in the first place. I was hoping for an installation where I wouldn’t need a lid - the smoke alarm would fit over the fitting (ie the box) but I’ve not measured that.

I've got battery powered smoke alarms fitted throughout the house. During a project I've got the ability to run a cable to where one of them is - but once I finish the project I won't be able to get back behind it again - it's on top of a door frame. I thought the best thing to do would be to...

A spirit level? I'm not entirely joking.

The floor in my kitchen has quite a few cracked or loose tiles - initially it was frustrating but now it's getting quite bad, lots of the grout has come up. Picture doesn't really do it justice It's got to the stage where I can pull up some by hand. The flooring came with the house...

Hardiebacker is water resistant. Polyfilla - well it depends what you use. The tiler will fill with tile adhesive, which probably isn't water proof. For small gaps I'd use silicone.

You shouldn't need any insulation tape as there shouldn't be any exposed live / neutrals. I normally use a single gang small terminal strip as it's very small (width) and easy to remove later. I do this mainly to make it clear that the wire is intentionally not connected, rather than looking...

There are some basic requirements for mortgageability - i.e. a working kitchen. A lack of building regulations is unlikely to be a massive red flag on it's own, depending on what it is. Some mortgage companies are very hesitant to lend on buildings with an "unusual" construction -...

Thanks - I've bought the Mira version of that. I can see now why a fitting attached to the finished wall would be much easier than one that attaches before the wall is installed.

That was my other thought (and probably a lot cheaper than the extensions). Just worried about a compression fitting dripping or being a bit wobbly as it's supporting the shower.

Fitting a shower in a bathroom. Shower is a Mira unit that uses Z connectors like this: And I was planning on fitting one of these to the (stud) wall behind it The problem is that the shower says the end of the Z connector must be 40-43mm proud of the finished wall - once you've...

I had some Halfords ratchets and upgraded to the Britool ones you've linked to (but without the flex head). Nicer to hold (grip) and 72 teeth is nice. It's not Snap-On, but I'm happy.

No gas, but I did check the resistance using a multimeter. Thanks for the advice - looks like I can save myself some work.

Replacing a (recently fitted) bathroom. The incoming supply to the house is earthed, however there is no continuity between the (exposed copper) pipes in the bathroom and earth. I suspect that there is a plastic joint somewhere between the two I cannot see. There is no bonding in the bathroom...

Do you need the ceiling rose? Or are you using it is a junction box only?

You need to try something actually mentally fulfilling, rather than repetitive that will lead to obsession.

Bear in mind you'll need to check the max torque of both the bolt, and the nut on the other side.

“Reactive”?

I'm using one to dim 5x Enlite E5's and a 6w LED retrofit bulb - 28.5w in total 8 is probably a bit excessive, but I fitted 5 in a relatively small room but use a dimmer - with a single pendant light it was dark with lots of shadows. With multiple light sources I can have much more even lighting.

So helpful.