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Hi, I'm looking to move the WC and I can see that the standard pipe bends and Tee branches have built in fall which is very convenient. On further investigation of the required fall, I can see the recommend ratios sitting between 1:40 and 1:80 but the standard fittings angle of 92.5 would give...

Thanks for the diagram. I think it may be clearer if I provide context. This is my post where I explain my setup and what I'm trying to achieve https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/room-thermostat-to-call-pump-only.641074/ I've set up my wiring to achieve this process flow: I want to be able to...

It would be under load condition

I mean current from the live travelling up the orange wire. I'm gessing the orange wire only activates as an output when both white and grey are energised and an internal switch is activated allowing current to flow. If that presumption is true then that means any current flowing in the reverse...

Just a question, what happens if a live current goes down the orange wire on a not energised (position W) drayton mid position valve, not as an output but as an input?

In that case, if I had the boiler capped at 65 and the cylinder thermostat capped at 65, then all that should happen is over time any inaccuracy drift would just result in the boiler operating longer than necessary?

I would hope the 1-6 range the manufacturer provided would keep the boiler operating issue free... I'm planning on how to wire my modernised heating system at the minute, which would include creating a new wiring centre and adding the cylinder thermostat. Right now all the valves are operating...

That's a fair point. I'll give that a go. I do wonder though if seasonal changes and different insulation profiles will affect cylinder temperature accuracy throughout the year. The boiler and pipe work run through an uninsulated garage while the cylinder sits in the floor above and is well...

My setup doesn't even have a cyclinder thermostat. Like I said, the temperture must cap out to whatever the boiler thermostat limit is because the water is scalding hot. Looking at those wiring diagrams though, it looks like I can have a direct call to the pump. I'll go ahead with my solution...

My boiler is a concord WCF 255. I struggled to find anything about it online. I'm not sure how the runs can be separate when it all fills from the same fill point by the cylinder and drains out through a shared drain valve. Originally the three port and zone valve were not there. I added...

You are right that it's from the 1980s. I don't know what an anti gravity valve is and my boiler is more modern than that but still old. It's one that relies on a pilot light the whole time.

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Yes exactly

It would require piping up a bypass circuit with another 3 port valve. The hot water side of the circuit is all 28mm dia. It's not a job I want to do. Later down the line when I upgrade the boiler I will completely reconfigure the circuit so this is just a stop over solution.

Yes. That's right

I've moved into a house with very basic central heating controls (one of those timer dials from the 80s) and non traditional piping set up which is causing some complications and I want to do the minimum work at the minute to modernise it. The way they've piped up the house the boiler sits...

My cold is mains fed and I'm looking to install a single impeller on hw (tank fed). I've already raised the tank to ensure I have the minium ltr/min feed but what I'm wondering is, if at the bath/shower I start mixing the cold and hot then isn't that going to affect the hw ltr/min feed and...

2.5 bar was the lowest I could find on bes.co.uk. I was hoping to find a variable prv and set it to the static head + margin but I'm going for the standard vent pipe anyway. I assumed the CH and CW tank were both considered F&E tanks. Since they would both be reaching the same tempareture I...

Thanks for the replies. On the question of the vent pipe, I don't get the point of the 450mm rise above the CW level. As has been said on here there shouldn't be any water leaking out of the vent if its above the water level so why can't I get away with simply sloping the pipe into the side wall...

I imagine just because it is used as a vent pipe doesn't mean it wouldn't be full of water. At the end of the day it is just another unrestricted outlet. What I'm trying to achieve is have the air escape through the automatic vent but in the case of thermal expansion under normal conditions or...