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Not a cavity wall no - two layers of brick side-by-side. Those element boards look decent but are far more expensive than green PB. I did consider aqualpanel/board but it's just overkill. Might consider AQ/AB/EB for the floor though. As for levelling the studs I'm concerned about differences in...

Just pulled down a load of tiles and plasterboard in the upstairs bathroom of my Victorian property. My goal is to tile it from floor to ceiling, replace the toilet, the sink and install a shower cubicle. I have in mind that I'm going to square out any non-level studs by planing off and sticking...

These look like masonry bits. I'd be putting too much force on the drill the hole - they'd surely break no?

I used a 3mm Stanley bit a while back and it broke within minutes of use. I need to get these holes drilled ASAP so I can't wait around for replacements. Can anyone recommend decent 3mm wood bits? I'm using no. 4, 30mm screws.

Looking good. Think I'll do the same myself.

I'm getting ready to insulate the loft with 300mm glass fiber. I have 9 recessed spots installed (these ones) in the upstairs landing. They are 4W spots nearly flush with the ceiling when viewed from the loft. Covers I see for spots in the loft are very bulky (here, 25 x 23.6 x 18 cm and here...

Thanks I'll take a look at this. I did intend to board the rafters to make the loft warm but it's far easier and straightforward laying it as there's actually two parts to my loft - the other part is only accessible by wedging myself through the rafters. Not sure about the right way of doing...

I'm looking to add around 100mm of insulation to the loft after having removed the former occupant's loose-fill and then boarding it. I'm only looking to add this little because I hope to convert it into a bedroom if possible sometime down the line so I don't want to have to remove it after...