Need to drill ~300 3mm pilot holes into joists - do I buy lots of cheap bits or a good one?

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I used a 3mm Stanley bit a while back and it broke within minutes of use. I need to get these holes drilled ASAP so I can't wait around for replacements. Can anyone recommend decent 3mm wood bits? I'm using no. 4, 30mm screws.
 
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I would change the screws - something like a Turbogold wouldn't need a pilot hole.
 
Small diameter drill are easily broken. When it happens I usually buy a bulk pack in that size
 
I buy the HSS "jobber" bits from Toolstation, but I wouldn't pilot for those little screws. If the two parts aren't closing together just whizz the screws in and out.
 
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You're not, by any chance, using these screws to fit joist hangars or mending plates are you? You really shouldn't need pilots on such small screws
 
Keep your drill at right angles whilst drilling and try a wood bit.
 
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I buy the HSS "jobber" bits from Toolstation, but I wouldn't pilot for those little screws. If the two parts aren't closing together just whizz the screws in and out.

These look like masonry bits. I'd be putting too much force on the drill the hole - they'd surely break no?
 
How are you driving the screws in? Pilot obviously makes it easier to drive them in but my cheap impact driver made light work of screws that size with no pilot needed.
 
To answer the question more directly my Bosch 3mm bit bent when I was using it to pilot a hole whilst making some supports out of CLS on a bench so I bought a multipack of cheapy wood bits.
 
4 or 4.5mm screws into softwood joists don't require pilot holes if you use an impact driver and decent screws. If you need to pilot loads of 3mm holes buy decent quality carbon steel or HSS twist drills, e.g. Heller or Milwaukee Thunderweb, and buy in boxes of ten which will make them even cheaper per item. Brad point twist bits offer no advantages in very small sizes (they tend to clog easily and don't last all that long)
 
If doing some sort of production run, requiring 300 holes on a bench, then if you put the bit in a plunge router, it's less likely to break.

But you should only be needing to drill pilot holes if doing some fine hardwood joinery, not knocking something up in CLS.

Use a bradawl, wax and just screws for softwood.
 
But you should only be needing to drill pilot holes if doing some fine hardwood joinery, not knocking something up in CLS.
Really? What if drilling near edges? You generally need to pilot screws near edges to prevent splitting. Same with thin timbers which are more prone to splitting. As to using a router? On softwood? Sloooow. A drill press would be a lot cheaper, assuming you can't just drill square with a cordless drill....

...and a pilot drill
 
i personally would make up a jig from say 12mm sheet material 2 batons underneath to locate and drill holes to match you could even make it with a leg so you drill holes then slide along the joist till the end lines up with the holes you have just drilled so placing automatically for the next holes
now iff accuracy is important you could have say 2 25x3mm screws to act as locating pins in the holes you have just drilled
 
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