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You need to be very careful with dpms around structures like that. Dpms with hydrostatic pressure can lift serious weights like concrete slabs etc. I once worked on a site where a lift shaft was a 1m deep pit with a butly liner with a 200mm reinforced concrete slab poured on it. The water...

If you want to overlay concrete 70mm is the minimum. Ideally you would have 90mm. Less than 70 will almost certainly crack at some point. You can break it up into sections if you like but you must maintain a joint of some sort where the join between the 2 slabs is. Drainage wise you could do...

Rotovate it all well. Personally i would highly recommend a rotovater with driven wheels rather than a tiller. About 35 quid for a day. Leave the stones in there. You don't want deep fills of screened soil with no stones. Stones are good for drainage and structure. You don't want stones in the...

Building control will never pass 60mm of concrete. A normal make up would have 100mm of hardcore, 20mm of blinding sand, dpm, 100mm of concrete, insulation, then 65mm of screed. You can omit the screed and put the insulation under the concrete and use the concrete as the floor but it is more...

What height is your dpc? You can certainly have decking if you prefer and it could be level with the threshold. The area under the decking can ventilate the air bricks fine as long as you dont physically block them. You need to consider how the area under the decking will drain water but this...

I'm with Ian, sounds like you need to connect this to a rainwater system or as a last resort a foul waste system. You don't need a connection to connect to, you can create one. Its more work but doesn't sound like you have a choice. As Ian said, where is your soil pipe and what about kitchen...

Tyvek is often used as a generic term bit like hoover. Any breather membrane will do really. Some will have minor thermal properties etc and there is a huge variety in cost. Unless you plan to have an airtight passive-shed then a basic breather will do.

If it was my own I'd go ahead but if it was a customer I would recommend on a separate wall. Depending on how the footings were done you may be lucky and have room to build a second skin on the edge with a small 50mm cavity between. This would be an easy way to make it much stronger and more...

No worries, get yourself onto paving expert.com if you need advice with the paving or ask on here if you have any specific queries

I had never heard of prefabricated cavity closers until I joined the forum. All sites I ever worked on here in N.I just use a strip of dpc and a 25mm strip of celotex sandwiched against the outer leaf by the returned blockwork. Merchants will stare blankly at you if you asked for a closer...

Yes there is to be honest. thats why i was asking about the wall construction. if this was a free standing wall 70cm of soil would have it over in no time but because the garage has eight on the top of the wall in terms of a roof and returned corners it is stronger by a distance than a free...

You'll need to buy reclaimed ones. They are not made any more. Some times referred to as Quarry tiles or if they are a brindle type colour they could be southport pavers.

'Paving expert calculators' are great. Google it. Good guides for all types of bedding mixes.

Open it and post a photo and measure the depth from finished paving surface to the base of the pipe at the bottom of the chamber. You can often reduce the opening to allow a 600x600 cover to be used but not if its too deep. Sometimes those old conc chambers dont even have a junction in them...

Is it a cavity or single skin wall? How high do you plan to bury?

That's fine. Personally I use mortice and tenons for the 4 corner joints and then a half housing joint as you described for the centre bar. The diagonal braces can be very shallow mortices.

Remove the fabric and any lose material. Do not put down any layers of sand. Either use a compacted sub base or lay the bedding mix straight onto the earth. Sub base is optional but recommended

Hard to get a feel for what you are talking about without a picture or some sort of diagram? 100mm over 3.5m is not a lot, its going to be noticeable but not excessive. You can simply use sub base to create slopes but if this 'ramp' has an edge then unbound sub base must obviously be...

Angular subbase will not puncture a proper geotextile. You should be using non woven needle punched fabric like terram 1000. A light pass with a vibrating plate will knock down any large protruding stones before laying the top sheet.

So if the police patrol were just around the corner and had no response calls at present to deal with would you rather they crouched cat like for hours poised for a terror attack or did something productive to deal with a community policing issue? Modern policing like any service has busy times...