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Just personal preference. The cladding will be anthracite and door anthracite. The white just breaks it up a little.

I’m shortly going to be installing external upvc shiplap cladding to the outside of my house in place of some concrete brick effect cladding which I’ve just removed. I’ve placed 70mm celotex between existing 3x2 timbers and have covered with external 18mm ply. I’ve then covered that with a...

Lol, thanks!

As an electrician, repointing isn't my forte! However, as I have a little spare time I'm wanting to give it a go, can't be that hard can it? What's the best way to rake out the mortar? It's actually quite soft from around half way up so I may just work on that area for now and leave the harder...

Im looking to bed down a 1400x700 low profile shower tray on a 18mm hardwood ply floor which runs out by around 20mm from back to front. I’ve read that a mortar mix can be used but wondering how a flexible rapid set cement based tile adhesive would work? I worry about cracking of the mortar mix...

OK, thanks. I'll take them out over the weekend and see if there's a part number to order a couple.

I've got a dripping bathtap and looking at the spec for the tap which I bought from Bathstore it looks like it contains a cartridge. I've only ever seen tap washers which obviously get worn hence a dripping tap is the result. Will the tap also contain a rubber washer or is the cartridge all...

DPC is above ground level, ground as in the top of the left hand drive. A lot of the sinking in front of the right hand drive on the Tarmac came from having a skip on the RH drive when we had an extension built.

Hi frank, yes, I realise a step or two will be needed at the right hand side and possibly some blocks built side upwards on a concrete footing in front of the wall for reinforcement. I also appreciate any groundwork would have to be done correctly otherwise I'll have another sinking drive :(

I have two drives, the left hand on an incline going into a garage and the right hand one a very slight incline. What I want is to remove the dividing wall, raise the right hand drive up by 240mm and end up with one large 6M wide drive. We've had nothing but trouble with sinking with the...

I've got a very slow emptying sink. I've removed as much visible gunk from straight pipes and elbows in areas I can access but it's still not 100% Is there a drain cleaning solution you can recommend that will clean the inaccessible pipework and joints or should I try one of the flexible...

[/url] Simple! Negates the need for a cap and probably cheaper. Thanks very much.

Thanks for your reply. This valve does indeed have a 0 setting but assumed that a cap was needed for a true off (quick internet search). A quick email to califfi won't go amiss I guess as I wouldn't want to be half way through removal then find out I have to put the rad back on due to 0...

I'm looking to remove a radiator for decoration and also to refix a poorly fitted bracket behind it. There's a Caleffi TRV fitted so I'll need a cap to shut the valve fully when the head has been removed so I don't need to empty the system. Any idea where I can purchase one from? I had hoped...

Thanks and yes, I've considered crossed genders lol

Cheers guys, good to have more options to consider. The whirling head on the lathe has been removed once in the last 15 years. I'm only fitting a plug and socket arrangement as the supply to it is also via a plug and socket (400v ceeform).

It's just a stop/start button that controls DOL contactor that turns a whirling head attachment on a lathe, 230VAC control circuit and obviously minimal load. Basically, we're installing a solenoid locking switch onto a set of twin sliding doors that'll be mounted on the front of the lathe...

Thanks Robin, looks to be a good option. They even do a 4 pin & earth insert! http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/heavy-duty-power-connector-accessories/1810498/

I discarded a Ceeform socket for the same reasons Plugwash stated. Basically it'll be four conductors, two for a stop button and two for the start. Control voltage will be 230VAC.

I know this isn't really aimed at most here but there are a few industrial electricians around that may have an idea? Can anybody suggest an inline plug and socket arrangement that's durable, ideally IPX4 though not a show stopper and can accept a 12mm flexible conduit (so M16 or M20 thread)...