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My assumption was that because the garage was outside the thermal envelope, the door would need to be thermally A-rated etc?

Thanks guys - that explains the trouble I'm having... I thought I was in £800 composite door territory for a while. I'll buy the door and frame as a set I think so presume it'll come with the seals and will check re: the closer.

Hi, I need to find a door that will link my house to a new attached garage. This needs to be a fire door, but does it also need to be rated to deal with the thermal loss? Is there a name/code for this other than 'external fire door'? It feels like I'm looking for a niche product, so wonder...

I'm just working out floor depths and insulation thickness on my new extension. Is there going to be a noticable performance difference between, say, 65mm screed and 100mm screed? Should I put the effort in to keep the screed as thin as possible? Thanks

I'd have had the lighting cables first fixed before insulation. On the last vaulted ceiling I did I had non structural collar ties so that I had a 500mm wide flat ceiling at the apex to hang lights from, and used that space to run the cables through.

I mean the odd batten is fixed to the side of a rafter every 2.4 metres so that it's easier to catch the rafter edges. So your 47mm rafter ends up being 73mm thick instead.

And yes it's a pig of a job single handed at height!

I lay them straight on using 100mm screws. I lay them landscape orientation and then only use a batten when two boards meet because I don't like trying to hit the edge of a 47mm rafter without getting too close to the edge of the plasterboards. You may be a bit late for this if you've already...

You may well need to double up the new joist that the 125mm x 47mm joists are bearing on, otherwise it's a lot of extra load for that single joist alone*, so that would get you 50mm back. Is that enough? *Given that most of the 125mm deep joists are under restricted ceiling height you may be...

Wickes list price is £4.20 and it's pretty easy to get a fake trade account with them, so that's 42p cheaper to start with.

What are you making with 180 bags. Have you thought about ready mix? :)

All things being equal, would build-in give a stiffer feeling floor compared to using masonry hangars? There's something in me that thinks the answer should be yes because the masonary would brace the end of the joist and resist the end of joist pitching more effectively than a hanger. The...

Are you going to paint it all cream to match the rest of the house? If so then it may not look *that* bad in the end. Those kind of smudges on the faces of the bricks and dreadful tooling on the joints are beyond rookie - it's like he's not even trying to make it neat.

You sound like my wife. Is the damp in the slab inconsequential given that it's under a damp proof pir layer, or did you leave it to dry for 1 day per mm or whatever that formula is?

In a situation where a floor is made up as follows: - 75mm screed with UFH - 100mm PIR - 100mm Concrete - 50mm sand - 100mm Hardcore During construction you'd pour the slab at the start of the build, and then fit PIR and screed layers after the roof is on. I often see people questioning how...

I'm wondering if I should bother now. On the other side of the house we had a similar situation where the electrician fitted a FCU next to a double socket on the ring then drilled straight through the wall, fitted a plastic SWA termination box then dropped the SWA down the wall. That was a...

Double post

Hi, I'm just setting out the footings for my new extension. 6 feet away is a shed that I envisage will need power and maybe a network cable in a couple of years. I'd like to lay an underground duct now to make things easier and neater in future (outside will be rendered) , and then when I'm...

First item looks like tread plates that you fit to those folding ladders when in trellis mode.

Have you considered volumetric on-site mixing? Most concrete companies will also do a line pump for around £350 which will pump over 100 metres horizontally.