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Hi All. I happened to be around when a BT engineer came around to fix an issue for a relative, so whilst he was there I asked some questions and also discussed the proposals on this post to him, he has suggested a different approach to what was originally discussed in the posts earlier, so I...

Thanks for the reply, I have done a sketch below of how hot water flows in the system, what I cannot do is open up the electrical connections as I wouldnt understand this, the key thing that I had like to understand is that how should this have been wired to achive the goal of the 2 thermostats...

Hi All. I have recently had an extension done and we have UFH on just the new extension, and radiators upstairs etc, in the house we have a nest thermostat and a heatmiser stat for the UFH area. The issue I am having right now is that the nest is the only control for heating the radiators and...

I think we are saying thesame thing excuse my terminology, so the master socket will just act as a junction box that is easier for a novice like me to wire/understand, so what I will have is a twisted pair directly for broadband coming off the box and then 2 x junctioned connections for 2...

Ok, I will order this, but before I do. I have a question for you. with this box, can i run a cable directly from the box directly without using the female socket hole especially for the broadband. For the phone, what I will probably want to do is run a spur or 2 directly from the master BT...

Fantastic, thanks very much for this. I will order a BT Master Socket NTE5C + VDSL MK4 socket, my only concern now is this. Its much easier for me to run a cable end to end, rather than a cable with a male socket connection which is what the BT socket allows for.

Yes, I still have those 2 things intact from when it was taken off the old dormer, I just need to adjustt it as now the building has extended outwards by say 400mm, so the dropwire clamp needs to be adjusted, a small hole in the soffit and then screw the hook on the timber holding the fascia...

I can get those crimps, but please an explanation would be fantastic or a sketch of how I should connect it. I say this because the tenure of my scaffold is up, and the only reason why it hasn't been taken off is because of Covid 19, so whatever I can get done whilst its still here, I am trying...

The other end of the cable was just tied to my scaffold temporarily, normally what happens is that it has a hook which gets screwed onto the fasia board timber/wall etc, ensuring that its not sagging and very tight. What I saw everyone else doing was just taking it off and connecting it back...

Who disconnected it? I dont think this matters now, I have explained on the picture below. The pole - and the cables coming off of it are AFAIK the property of BT and your interference with it could get you in deep doodoo with them. I only disconnected my cable as the fascia board on the dormer...

Hi All. We just had an extension done, and due to the nature of the works the cable from the pole was detached from the house, now we are at the stage where it can now be added back. Before the works, below is a summary of the setup. From the pole there is a black twisted copper cable...

Hi All, I have an outbuilding at the bottom of my garden, please see the pictures below. At the back of the outbuilding is a fence and behind hte fence is a school field. At the level of the fence, the soil is a little higher than my garden level, say 300 - 400mm at worse case. I am a little...

Thanks for the reply. The blue device has always been loose. What is it supposed to look like ? I have read about 2 port diverters. Is that what I need ? The little device which diverte between Hw or CH? If I were to fix this, i will prefer a solution that i can fix myself with little or no...

It's always been like this (the question on the head) Now. I have reduced the TRV on all the upstairs rads and the downstairs ones seem to be firing very hot, never seen it that hot before. So it looks like a balancing issue. I am to tackle that this week. On the other issue which is the...

Thanks mate I really appreciate this. The valve is that thing that looks like a T junction right? I will follow you instructions and report back. One thing though, I have a multi meter, however If you want me to use that. Please give me simple layman instructions and I can report back if need be.

The actuator is not connected to any valves. It connects to an electrical box which is what controls things. I found that it has a plastic lever, when I tried to turn it with a little bit of force, I heard the boiler come on, then the thing made a squeaky noise and turned back to it's original...

Usually when the radiators are hot and I check the programmer, the hot water lights are on. I am sure if I turned it off the radiators will cool down, I never did this as I dont understand the heating system and dont want to tamper with it, not at this lockdown period.

Please see th picture

Thanks for the reply. In the boiler cupboard, I have a magna clean, a pump and a device called mid position actuator code. I dont think I have a 2 port motorised valve or maybe its hidden under the floorboards somewhere.

Hi All. We currently have this heating system whereby there is a cold water tank in the loft, the boiler is on the first floor in one of the rooms, together with another tank next to the boiler and an expansion vessel above the boiler, its a potterton boiler. Now, the showers are both electric...