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find a hetas or other scheme fitter, ask them for guidance for the donkey work and let them install and certify otherwise your flying blind trying to go the seemingly cheaper route can be the most expensive route as you need to comply with what the person passing the installation deems to be...

the best thing you can do is ask the person you are paying to certify it what they require or iff your going the building control route for certification make sure you tell them first before you start have a look at part "J"...

i would wet it and overspring it the other way about half the amount as in assuming the high point is around 20mm flip it and place a bit off timber between 8 to 12mm under the high spot and clamp the ends to the bench having said that as its old wood you may just be stuck with what you have...

is this a wall mounted shelve ?? and are you planning on intermediate mid to front off shelve support?? always plan bow up so load is your friend

ok i have loads off time on my hands 6ah batteries 1.1kg loaded up the saw it took 6 batteries to overcome the spring pressure and friction to plunge so around 12kg without any added human intervention weight wise then removed one battery it stayed plunged so needed a further battery...

with my dewalt plunge i agree high value then clamp but i never ever clamp on sheet material and never had a slip iff you think about it you have the say 5-7kg saw with batteries with perhaps 4.5kg spring pressure trying to lift the motor up from the plunge so thats around 11kg pushing down as...

i will often cut off strips for drawer boxes or other strips from say 12mm mdf i will cut them 2mm oversize with a track saw then cut them to the correct length then pass over the table saw to correct width to halfway then flip and do the other half for longer bits can greatly reduce the fore...

dont know iff anybody has said when using a track saw you mark at the cut point lay the track on the bit you want covering half the pencil line so when you cut it takes out half the pencil mark giving you 100% accuracy if you choose to cut on the main board with the offcut being your strip you...

first 3 cuts free can give you loads off strips first cut 3 boards cut in half second 6 strips third another 6 so 12 now what you can actually do will depend on machine capacity [thickness wise ] and the operator being willing to restack the bits but worth a thought

assuming you are working with a length stop have you thought about cutting multiples at once in the same or different orientation or in deed a multiple off both to fit the cut area off the blade and motor clearance limits also its possible to let the trigger go just before the full cut and aim...

can you take a picture at the doorway with the door open showing the about 90-100mm finished concrete to finished floor level ?? i also assume the fixings[nail or screws] are only at 600mm centres and thats the joist spacings ?? also worth checking if the bounce is through dipping rather than...

Suggest even basic research online will help you answer this question in my opinion, if you have to ask this question you have done zero research ??

general comments for future reference in a clad unpainted plank style shed in general the top will overhang all round a gutter is preferable so the water off the roof cannot bounce/splash/get onto the structure surface or underneath the walls and door should start protected at or near the roof...

i have ryobi power converters for both collecting solar energy and allowing tv' router other small charging needs like laptops and mobiles in power cuts https://www.direct-powertools.co.uk/ryobi-one-gen2-power-inverter-150w-18v-ry18bi150b-0-tool-only-c2x39903813

solent powertool spares seem to do loads off parts for the generic machines so worth a try they actually mention parkside

it doesnt really matter how you do it as long as the end off the felt is say 12mm clear off the timber to shed the water or the felt has to fold under and go uphill so the water drips off the low point

on a more practical note what ever height your decking is will detract from your permitted allowance for the summer house as in total permitted 2500mm decking at say 250mm your now restricted to 2250 on your summer house

general comments quite impressive the felt at the front should form some sort off drip clear off the doors and internal timbers as it is the water will tend to hang under the timber above the doors as it tracks round the felt as there is no place to fall off what would help is say a 19x38mm or...

i would say what ever you do i would think about either introducing drain holes in the metal or even making sure the gap is filled even with a slight taper off something like decorators caulk so the dropping water is diverted down the outside rather than getting trapped internally between wood...

other thoughts iff they are tongue and groove planks you may with the use off an undamaged plank be able to pair as long as you have at least 2 points on the tongue or groove to give parallel support to pass over a table saw but you would probably be cutting the inner edge off the damaged plank...