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Well I think by throwing on top he did mean laying insulation over it and wrapping around the edges, but yeah. The gist is the same. Pipework is PEX push fit plastic stuff as well.

Hi all. Follow up, my plumber advised not to lag the plastic pipes as they don't give off much heat anyway. He said to just throw some loft insulation on top. Is he right or talking a bit of nonsense?

Thanks for the reply! I had been misinformed they should only need adjustment if the valves weren't TRV. Good to know they'll need balancing regardless

With TRV valves that control the water flow to match the temperature, should the lockshield valve on the other end be fully open or cracked based on the radiators distance from the boiler? Usually you balance the trv to match a manual valve on the inlet but with the trv it doesn't need doing...

Thanks everyone for the insight, I learned a lot!

Having new boiler fitted - the central heating flow and return is 22mm pipe. These pipes seem to step down to 15mm before reaching the radiators and obviously step back up on the return. Is this done for a reason? I noticed one radiator has the 22mm step down right at the thermostatic valve...

Ah yeah of course, I just didn't know if it's better to insulate them individually or put rockwool over the top so the heat from the hot pipe gets trapped next to the cold pipe to warm it up.

Getting new plumbing in the loft with grey plastic pipe stuff. Should I lag the individual pipes or just put a roll of loft insulation over the top to trap heat in from the hot pipe/any rising heat from downstairs?

Good advice, I didn't get the time to check today but will look into that as well!

Will grab a photo in daylight tomorrow. Sounds like a poor fall could be to blame but surprised it's not been an issue for previous owners until now. Any advice on how to relay the drain? Can't imagine it's an easy job to do - or if we can even get a new inspection set to lay as it's lots of...

Bit of a gross one. Sorry! Lifted the inspection panel on the manhole for the bathroom today and found a massive blockage of toilet paper and waste. Managed to dislodge it and it happily flowed down the waste pipe. Rinsed it out, did a test flush with some paper and by the time I got to the...

Thanks for the reply! Good to know I was wrong about the condensation issue. I think the wind blows through either via the soffits /fascias and it gets easier access to the floor space than the eaves (given the dormer conversion) it also could be coming in from the ventilated cavity wall gap...

Thanks for the help! It's ideally just for storage so will insulate the floor to keep downstairs warmer and add some thin celotex to keep in any latent heat for the pipes. Will also put the pipes below the insulation, not above.

Originally made it warm as the loft space has water pipes that froze in cold weather. So added celotex to try and prevent the pipes freezing again in cold weather.

I've got a dormer bungalow with a second floor with a flat roof on the dormer and some insulated pitched roof in the loft. The floor beneath the upstairs rooms is uninsulated - just joists and boarding. The air howls through the floor between the upstairs and downstairs, when I'm in the loft...

Well, it's a former conversion and it's fairly cold so it's helping keep some heat in upstairs. Maybe a waste to some degree but it's better than before, having felt and tiles just the other side of a plaster board partition.

Having some work done in the loft and the plumber took up the chipboard the previous owner fitted. Beneath the chipboard is some old fashioned yellow fiberglass loft insulation and some vermiculite (already seen elsewhere in the loft and tested clear for asbestos) There's a fair gap between...

As seems to be standard these days, front doors can only open from the outside with the key, even if the door is unlocked. Seems turning the key opens the door instead of the handle. It's all well and good but it makes an unlocked door impossible to get inside without the key, a few times I've...

Thanks. Will check and confirm, currently the only gas appliance is a gas fire/ back boiler in the living room so the kitchen will likely be okay to remove.

Will double check in the day light tomorrow, but I am fairly sure they are. If it isn't a cavity wall is the sole purpose of the vents to avoid damp inside the room? If that's the case I'd be concerned as I've so far not seen these vents in any of the other rooms (aside from the kitchen) but...