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Refer to MI but usually they are fed in 22mm. Check the mains pressure and flow rate before you even consider changing anything. Without the right pressure the change could make very little difference.

You "may" be able to cut the pipe off below the "bodged" white plastic pipe and fit an adapter to fit inside the pipe. BEFORE you cut anything see if you can measure the diameter and take that dimension to a plumbers merchants. The sort of thing I had in mind was:-...

...But it's on a combi so none of those should apply.

Cordless drill!

Can you turn pump speed up to III and close all other rads? Do your new pipes go up before they go down?

I was going to suggest A. Check you haven't teed off the same pipe, either flow or return (as DaleRCL has suggested). B. Shut all the other rads. C. Check that lockshield is open and TRV pin not stuck closed on new rad.

Photo required.

As another thing to try you could descale the shower head... that can make a difference too.

My FGA gives an "Efficency" reading that is higher than the Manufacturers Stated Rating.

Do it only if you really have to... or close them if you fancy a bit of extra work draining down and replacing....

We probably need to see the entire valve before you dismantle it for anything other than a complete stab in the dark.

I once went to service an Inter Burner (B9, B11 maybe) which only had two of the three securing screws fitted. No problem I thought... while I am here I will fit a third and everything will be wonderful. I told customer "they had a screw loose" and that I had fitted a replacement. When I turned...

Do any of you chaps know when Potterton made their range of Statesman OIL Boilers? A customer has moved and wants to know the age of his boiler. I can't get any info from the Boiler or Literature. It's a Statesman 65/85, Serial Number ALJD507. It looks be be a reasonably old conventionally flued...

Maybe the flushing mechanism is a more modern type and not fully closing, enabling water to trickle into the pan. Hence the float valve has to make up the cistern volume when the water level falls sufficiently to activate the float valve.

I had the entire guts of a 28mm gate valve come out on me a few years ago. I was able to ram it back in and hold it in with electrical tape while I drained down to replace with a lever valve.

I assume you are connecting to copper pipe. Is it clean and paint-free?

You could have a section of 22mm pipe to make up the expansion volume if you can't be ar**ed to fit an expansion vessel.

Is there any way to eliminate trapped air at the high points of your pipework? My guess is you have an air lock stopping the water flowing properly.

Can you use a wet/dry vac on the shower hose to get the water moving?

You could cut a new hole at the front of the cistern but make sure it is the same level as the original hole and not below the overflow level.