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This was the design given It was a free instruction set from the government before we went digital on how to stop interference.

I use Tapo (TP-Link) as the switches don't need a neutral, they are battery powered. No flicking lights etc, works with any bulb.

OK, the system works, and is reasonably cheap to run. But the hysteresis is rather high. It took some time to work out what the graphs are but found it in the end, the green bit (last graph) is outside temperature, green line actually temperature, and black line the set temperature. The first...

Had it in parents house, I know what it was, the coal and coke were stored near to the drain, and had simply washed in. Had I not know the history I would not have realised.

Yes, said tongue in cheek, however, there are some boilers with the hub built in, some with 24 volt controls often miss labelled as low voltage, when we know ISO define it as extra low voltage.

Not enough information, and I really don't want to hunt out the wiring diagrams for either Tado V3 or Worcester greenstar Mk2 oil combi, and I know from the Worcester oil boiler I have, there have been many versions with the same group name. Oh, it seems @CountryFan has a crystal ball, or more...

I agree highly unlikely, but with a split or three-phase supply, zero current can be flowing through the neutral, even when there is a load.

I was answering another thread, and I realised for a neutral to earth fault with a TN-C-S supply, it would need less than 2 kΩ to trip the RCD and this can be measured with a standard multi-meter, as only looking at 11.5 volts with worse case scenario. And in your case, since the MCB does not...

With a TN-C-S supply, any other supply there is no way to be sure neutral and ground have no potential difference, I know with some supplies we put diodes in the earth connection to allow a small difference without current flowing, all part of the cathodic protection, but only seen that with...

If you have a mast head amplifier, then it needs a DC supply up the coax, so non-isolating is used, but otherwise you can get atmospheric voltages in the aerial which can give one a nasty belt, so isolated used, it will not protect from a lighting strike, but may protect from near misses.

We have all seen the adverts and we think, will it work? The heater, plugged into a socket I would never entertain, but the fan on the radiator, seemed an interesting idea. I had a proper Myson fan assisted radiator in my old house, and it worked well, so I had a thermostat to make beer with...

You seem to know what you are doing now, so hope to see you say all up and running soon.

That would not cause a RCD to trip, as no earth or even neutral goes to the MCB. As to £250 for 3 hours, back in the 1980's my time was charged out at £25 an hour, so I suppose for a call-out, it may cost that, but it does seem high. As to further work by you, this seems to show some shoddy...

I will guess, and only a guess, all down to British Summer Time. As it seems an hour out. It seems off-peak with every tariff but economy 7 swaps between UTC and BST, the economy 7 is the odd one out. Historical thing, from when using mechanical time switches, which could not be easy changed...

Apologies this shows clearly a Y Plan, so very likely 230 volts control. Only question is if the blue wire actually connected to neutral if so then your diagram will work.

As has already been said, the MCB in the consumer unit does not switch the neutral, and neither do most switches, odd one out is the cooker, that does normally switch the neutral. But this means you can have a cumulative earth leakage, so even turning only the kitchen on at the MCB it could...

I can see how it could be read that way, but using your own electrical knowledge what reason would there be to limit the length of a DC cable, can see a problem with AC specially if in kHz range like with down lights, but seems no reason to limit length of a DC cable. Not that this helps, a new...

The old thermostat does not care what the voltage is, the new one does. There are three typical voltages used with boilers 0–40 volts, yours is unlikely to be that, 24 VDC and 230 VAC the latter two do not mix, should not even use the same cable for them. So we have the volt free thermostat to...

I did read and re-read, it does not really make sense, I know with my boiler the hub is within 2 meters of the boiler, but the thermostats in one case is two floors up, diagonally opposed to the boiler, and I have a booster socket adaptor as too far from the hub to connect with zigbee. Not...

Until @Akustik returns we don't know what has really gone wrong. My smart meter leaves it to me to set times when I import or export electricity, so I have no knowledge of these meters.