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I think the OP is confused on a number of things and may be mixing up specific offences and the "law". oxforddictionaries.com defines Law as "The system of rules which a particular country or community recognizes as regulating the actions of its members and which it may enforce by the...

Putting aside whether the electrician is competent perhaps you're over reacting BAS? I did something similar with my bathroom - I found an electrician before I started & agreed it all with him - I did first fix myself and had him do the final fix & issue the paperwork for BC. Not aware that...

Maybe the T&G ceiling is a drop ceiling with a large cavity. If it's in easy reach and over the bath I'd assume you'd also say 12v to be on the safe side?

It's only replacing lights and unless building control are involved I can't imagine that anyone is ever going to check. 2.2m seems quite low for a ceiling. I thought they all tended to be 2.4m and above.

you need outdoor paving surely? be warned though - black slate stains very easily from mortar (difficult to point) and it doesn't stay black once sunlight gets to it.

if they're ceramic then you can probably crack them with a hammer and chisel and then chisel it clean fairly easily.

Do they come with kick plates that clip to the legs and fill the cupboard to floor gap?

You might be saving yourself a lot of pain if you ditched him how. If he thinks it's a good idea to use 6mm ply anywhere you have to question what he knows about anything else he'll be doing. Did you ask others for quotes? If you do you could ask them how they'd do it & avoid the clueless.

Even better if it wasn't ply. Are you sure he's a tiler?

Do you know what the tiles are laid onto and how that substrate is sealed to the tray?

Okay I realise I just asked how long is a piece of string. Is there any particular type of LED tape that's better as a under cabinet light source if you're looking for lighting rather than mood effects?

How much light do you get off LED strip lights? Would you use them to light the work surface or are they used to give a lighting effect?

Cement boards aren't waterproof and need to be tanked. They're also not very nice to work with. In the shower I'd use Marmox 12.5mm - it's much nicer to work with and waterproof so you only need to seal the joints. You could also use Marmox on the floor or Hardie 6mm - what's best depends...

1. Don't use chipboard. It isn't god to tile onto especially in the bathroom where any moisture will make it expand & pop the tiles. 2. Ply's okay to strengthen the floor if it needs it but also not good to tile onto. 3. Use a tile backer board - Marmox, Wedi. Or cement based...

Getting it wet shouldn't make any difference (within reason). Quite common to shape silicone with liquid so the odd splash should be okay. But why have you drained the bath before the silicone's cured?

You may have been better with a flexible (silicone) joint between the tray and tiles. Different materials tend to expand and contract differently & inflexible joints can get cracks. Why not just run a bead of clear silicone round the glass so that water can't get into the channel?

Is the water coming under the panel or around the side?

Assuming the bath is against a wall then ideally you will have filled the bath with water before you silicone so that the silicone is compressed when the bath is empty. If you didn't do this then when the bath's full the bath will flex the gap may be larger & maybe too much for the silicone.

Thanks for that. It was something I bought a while ago & didn't use. Doubt I'll find a receipt for it. I guess it's safest to ditch it.