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There seem so many different insulation products for installing between the studs in timber frame. The foil faced boards seem the most expensive. Are they really superior or just easier to work with?

Thanks for the reply. But I am still puzzled. :oops: As TRADA say: [the membrane] i allows water vapour to escape from the construction; and it can also contribute to air sealing the wall. But if the construction is airtight- sheeted in visquene, say, there will be no water vapour-...

I am making up timber frame panels by nailing OSB on to C16 studs with the intention of then covering the OSB with Tyvek breathable membrane. I have seen recommendations that the OSB joins should be taped and sealed to make them airtight. "Airtight" seems to a desirable idea in building these...

Does it matter of the dpc in the concrete block outer leaf is higher than the dpc that the timber frame sole plate sits on? For some reason the existing suspended floor of the house is very near ground level so to get the recommended 150 mm height above FGL I would need to reduce the height...

They have been very good in the past but looks like you are right. Maybe someone had an off day. I will talk to them again. :) Thanks for the reassurance.

The plans for my single story extension specify studs for the load bearing timber frame of 120mm ( at 600 centres ) . When I went to my timber supplier they told me that they didn't do this size, (though they did offer to thickness some 145mm for me.) But now I am concerned. If 120 mm is not a...

Thank you. I'll ask for clarification.

The plans for my extension refer to tying in the new foundations to the existing ones with "900mm dowels". It doesn't specify number or spacing or size . Is using dowels a normal practice? Can I buy them a local builder's merchant?

Thanks guys

My dewalt DW005 24v hammer drill is completely lifeless. The battery is fully charged ( it works fine in my circular saw) but the drill is dead. Is this a fault anyone has come across? Switch maybe? Contacts? I will probably have to strip it down and fault find with a meter. Just wondered if...

Not sure what you mean by a "proper cut roof" And why it would be simpler?

"Loose fill" Excellent. That is the route I will go. I reckon with patience I can get the angles right. My only real worry was satisfying the BCI. And you have pointed the way ahead. Your help is much appreciated.

OK . Thanks. Something to think about. I have no idea really. I am assuming the truss manufacturers won;t make a "kit" for the hip structure?

Good question!! I think- note "think" - that I can easily buy engineered trusses for the 5200 span but will have to make the hip on site- and so the shorter the better.

I have drawings for an extension 5200mm wide and 4400mm long. The architect has specified a roof pitch of 20 degrees all round. This geometry means that about half the roof is the hip. I am wondering if the hip pitch could be steeper and allow a greater section of the roof to be spanned by the...

I think you need a deck to support the insulation boards- OSB is probably what is used most nowadays. But insulation boards are not usually designed to have mechanical strength. OSB at about £15 a sheet isn;t all that expensive compared to the EPDM and insulation board Whether the existing...

Well I wouldn't be that concerned just yet. The battens look plenty strong enough to support the ceiling- can't tell how the metal brackets are secured but a sheet of plasterboard weighs less than 25 KG and if the brackets seemed OK, they probably are. Incidentally, plasterboard bends just fine...

If the battens are fixed to a metal roof why would there not be thermal movement? A sheet metal roof would expand and contract considerably and plasterboard would not begin to be flexible enough to accommodate it First question is: is the crack parallel or at right angles to the battens? (That...

The extension will be timber frame with a 50 mm cavity and 100mm block outer wall. A truss bottom chord would measure 5200mm . The pitch is 20 degrees, so the top chord would be 2766mm with an overhang of 200mm for the soffit and a ridge height of 946mm. What I want to do is achieve the same...

The plate to plate measurement is the 5.2 metre. That is the "truss length" to sit on the timber frame. Obviously there is a cavity and an external block wall to make up the rest of the building ( plus a soffit)