Search results

Hadn't thought so. Where would the purlin sit?

Thanks Sounds fair enough. I already know that my span is 5200mm and pitch 20 degrees. I would want 400mm on centre and use 147 x 47 mm C16 Intuitively, that would seem plenty strong enough to support the Marley tiles- say 0.75KN.M-2 It's the "intuitively" bit that worries me. :)

Thanks. I reckon my maths is up to it. :-) Would I need to design my own pattern or is there likely to be one " out there"? ( I have a copy of the TRADA span tables)

I am building an extension and wondering if I can make the pitched roof structure- less hassle than ordering trusses maybe? The extension is 5200mm by 4400mm with 20 degree pitch and hip end The 5200 dimension is the one I need to construct rafters to span. Any thoughts on how simple it...

I have no idea what the "powder" could be either - but I do know you need to sort out the exact construction of your walls and the mysterious cavity. Any vents or weep holes to be seen? Still reckon a FOC survey, courtesy of your gas supplier is a good start. :)

When you say there is "white powder" in the cavity, do you mean the cavity is filled- ie insulated? Obviously the cavity has to be completely sealed before insulating the external leaf would achieve anything- and the energy companies do that FOC Consider getting them to do a (free) survey?

That is what the architect has drawn- and I think it gives better insulation. I am also much better at joinery than brickwork. :)

I am building a small ( 6m x 4 m ) single storey extension and the architect's drawing refers to a timber frame kit. Can I make up the frame myself in the usual manner, and if so what do I need to organise by way of calculations etc? Do I need a structural engineer, for example? Thanks

I get it! Thanks

I've submitted plans for an extension and the planning officer wants a 1.9 metre screen fence between me and my neighbour. A screen fence seems eminently a good idea but the 1.9 metre dimension seems odd given that 1.8 metres (admittedly along with 2.4m) is a standard length for fencing...

Thank you. I was just curious really and have already ordered a new, trailing edge, dimmer. One of the bulbs started flickering so I yanked it and a couple of weeks later another started doing the same. I put both in a different, non-dimmed, installation, and they flickered there also. Given...

some time ago I fitted ceiling downlighter LEDs controlled by a dimmer. Recently the bulbs have misbehaved and it has been suggested that I have the wrong type of dimmer. Obviously the simple thing to do is just buy a trailing edge dimmer and bin the original. But I wondered, is there any way...

I've tried and not met with much success. Reckon local people would rather supply and fit. Not much profit for local people in helping DIY-ers. The assumption is that some national online outfit could gear up for postal supply- not that it is an assumption that is based on reality so far. :-)

I have a broken sealed unit in the opening top part of a small window. It only measures about a metre by 200mm so I thought I would have a go myself. How hard can it be, I thought! But getting made to measure units seems difficult. Anyone know an online dealer who has broken ranks and sells to...

There is always that! :-)

interesting thoughts on the dimmer- I hadn't thought to consider load requirements for the dimmer. I did take two "flashing" bulbs ( I think a purist might call them "occluding" :-) )and put them in a a non dimmer circuit ( my kitchen has halogen GU10s) and they behaved the same way, but don't...

Don't understand this. They were run off a transformer? Mine are mains- GU10 I think is the code - and I commoned up four to a junction box and connected all the neutrals to the incoming neutral and all the lives to the switched live of the the dimmer. Surely all lights have to be parallel?

Recently I fitted some LED downlighters with 4w dimmable bulbs. Despite being advertised as lasting for zillions of hours, several have failed quite soon. The nature of the failure is distinctive: the bulbs light intermittently "flashing " in something like a 2 seconds off I second on pattern...

The suspended floor butts to a concrete floor- it's a basement flat and a was a rather cowboyish townhouse conversion at that. so no, no way out. As I have said, I don't mind lifting the laminate from the skirting board end- just as long as I know I really do have to! Thanks to all for the replies

No edging strips- I will have to remove the skirting. So yes, quite a job. But like I say, I am quite content to just get on with it as long as I know that it has to be done and I am not missing a short cut. :)