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    Support for corner double oven

    Thanks. That's what I thought, but I wasn't sure if any brackets needed to be attached to the wall. If I understand correctly, the bracket goes around the inside of the mdf side and back panels, transferring the load to those three panels. That instinctively felt too little for such a heavy...
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    Support for corner double oven

    Hi. Yes, I intend to put it in a cabinet, probably this one. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-White-Larder-Appliance-Tower---600mm/p/122917 But will the shelves hold a 60kg double oven, without additional support?
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    Support for corner double oven

    Hi, I am planning to install a double oven in the corner of kitchen. There will be worktops either side, and the oven will be housed in a cabinet. This will obviously mean that there is a void behind the oven, and also a triangular void between the oven and the cabinets each side (concealed...
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    15mm offset in 150mm of copper

    Thanks for the kind words! :LOL: Seriously though, I reckon it's fine as temporary fix until I get the chance to lift the boards and put new pipes in. I guess the plumber who installed the old radiator left his level at home. Does it look solid enough?
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    15mm offset in 150mm of copper

    Thanks Dan. That's the conclusion I came to, so I went ahead and used an offset. All good now. Not the best piece of pipe bending ever, but all seems tight.
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    15mm offset in 150mm of copper

    Hi, I am in the process of replacing a radiator. The height of the original valves differs by 15mm, and the radiator is 300mm shorter. I am temporarily using the original valves, with a 150mm gap either side, which I am bridging with some 15mm copper pipe, and compression fittings. Eventually...
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    Timber and celotex ceiling in outbuilding

    Thanks. Hadn't considered that at all. :eek: I believe 12.5mm for a ceiling would be the right thickness. Total depth is a concern, because the ceiling is not particularly high. I'm thinking that, to span the approx 3.5 metres, and support the 12.5mm plasterboard, plus the insulation...
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    Timber and celotex ceiling in outbuilding

    Hi, I am looking to better insulate an outbuilding, which will eventually be fully renovated. The building is double bricked and, as far as I know, has cavity wall insulation, but has a flat roof, and seem to cool down quickly. The building is approximately, 9m x 3.5m. It has a concrete floor...
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    Barricade a door with box section

    Thanks for this, and to everybody else who has commented. I should have been clearer that the barricade will be on the inside of the door. As such I hadn't planned to use any padlocks, just brackets on the handle side (the hinge side been in the wall). Any suggestions on brackets and/or depth...
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    Barricade a door with box section

    Hi, I have an external side door which is never used, and will likely eventually be bricked up, but I want to secure it for now, with some kind of drop in barricade. The door is in a corner with brick walls at both sides (the hinges are in the corner). I had planned to barricade it with...
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    Old waste pipe in wall - remove or bury?

    Thanks. Removal is a bit problematic, due to tile cladding on the outside. The cladding will eventually be removed, so access for full removal will be easier then. If I do finally remove it, can I simply core drill from the outside? For now, will cutting and capping present any problems? If...
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    Old waste pipe in wall - remove or bury?

    Hi, I have removed an old sink from a bedroom, but the metal waste pipe is still in the wall. I has planned to chisel around it, cut with a multi-tool so that the remaining pipe is below the surface of the plaster, and then plaster over. On the outside I planned to cut and cap the pipe. Is...
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    Reversing door and hinges

    Unfortunately all the doors I want to reverse are currently sashlock. Below is a picture of one of them. The blue line shows the halfway point between the top and bottom hinges (if the top is at 6 inches and the bottom at 9 inches). I'm concerned that I would have to go so high that it wouldn't...
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    Lock block on solid core door?

    Hi Ken. Just realised I hadn't responded to your comment. I have checked all around the frame and the only thing stamped is some kind of serial number, so no joy there.
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    Screwing gussets to rafters

    Thanks. I'll take the 80mm back and get a box of 50mm instead (I have some PZ 4 x 45mm, but they easily cam out with the impact driver, so I'd rather use TX). What would be best 4, 5 or 6mm?
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    Screwing gussets to rafters

    Thanks. Would a 4mm pilot be OK for those 6mm screws?
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    Screwing gussets to rafters

    Hi, I am planning on attaching some plywood gussets to some 2x4 rafters. The rafters are circa 1960, and so are actually 51mm, and the ply gussets are 18mm each side, for a total thickness of 87mm. I'm planning on screwing through all three pieces with 6 x 80mm screws. Is there much chance of...
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    Lock block on solid core door?

    Thanks SFK. Given the weight of the door, I get the impression that it is pretty dense, so I will just give it a go. I have already ordered some 63mm latches, but once I get the handles delivered I'll have a look to see if 76mm might be better.
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    Lock block on solid core door?

    Evening Ken! I was hoping you weren't going to say that :D I've gone tapping back and forth along the edge and I can't hear any change that might indicate a lock block, and there is no L or any other obvious marking on the door. Does anybody have any tips on how to locate it? Does it matter...
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    Quality of structural plywood

    Hi, A couple of days ago I bought some 18mm structural plywood. I had it cut up for transport by the supplier. Below are a couple of pictures. As you can see, in one place a split in the surface has been filled (the split is just the top layer of the plywood). It isn't a problem for me in this...
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