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i won' if i CAN get it off outside i won't have to freeze it ! it's just getting a stopcock key that will fit the external stopcock!!! :)

might be better off getting a new mixer? they are so ancient now anyway but i knw ou can still buy them!

be honest if a plumber was called out to change a float valve in the cw tank and had to freeze a pipe or take a while turning the water off outside, etc, they would charge a LOT more wouldn't they?!! I think I'm gonna try and get the external stopcock off before i do the pipe freeze!!! :0

lol i get your point-what i meant was like some people put sealant or putty around atap hole before the tap goes through and on the underside before the backnut and washer. it helps to make a better seal! for in future if it's good i'll buy some. what type of silicone sealant do you guys use...

yes true, as mentioned from a post before i will get a service pipe made up with a piece of pipe the other end in case the pipe freezing fails!

i read it in a diy book a while back before i started doing any plumbing. it looked a bit like a tub of flux!!

as mentioned before briefly i fitted a new monobloc tap in my bathroom, using flexy connectors 12mm to 15mm pipe. i used the fibre washers supplied which made the seal. But I have read a bit of silicone/compound around the fibre washer helps make an even better watertight seal. What's the...

Yep i would like to turn off the supply first. BUT the prob is th stopcock is just too jammed. and it is stuck behind a worktop and cupboards/badly installed IMO. so no access to get to it to add a new stopcock! the one in the road is my only hope i guess!! are there many type of stopcock...

the external stop cock needs a special key though !? Also my mates internal stopcock key is right behind the back of the sink unit and very inaccessible. If there is a problem and the pipe freezer fails for some reason then I will have a stop end to quickly wack onto the pipe end to stop...

Hi-i did think of that but it is water authority's property and this too may be stiff and if i snap it off or someting :( also, his internal stopcock is hard to get at - and getting to the pipe to cut it/add a stopcock there will be very tricky!!!

what do you mean the bathroom tap? on where the bath/basin?

a lot of people still have conventional boilers/open vented systems. everyone i know, bar 1 person does!! if you want a sealed system the f & e will go (an expansion vessel will either be inside the boiler or external depending on type and what you want). i have heard unvented cylinders...

this is a good point, i have used plumbers mait putty to seal my bathroom waste - i have heard silicone is used more now tho but a bugger to get off when changing a waste outlet, etc?!!! is plumbers blue a good jointing compound to use around tap holes/waste etc? i have heard it is the best...

yep i get you. i just thought if c and 1 (with c on the lft in the diagram) made and broke connection it would look easier and more clear! but i get it!! it's also weird how 2 x 2 port vale had a permanent live each while the 3 port mid has no permanent live!!!

Hi-while I'm online i thought i might ask a quick question - I am going to put a BS12 part 2 float valve in my friends cold water tank-as his is leaking slightly and will only get worse. His stopcock is very stiff (even with leverage it is not able to shut off fully). I thought I'd freeze the...

ok will do. thanks 4 ur help

yeah i was looking at the salamander CT50 - £100 but looks like it is for normal gravity-fed type showers. might get that one. as long as it works with my original essex flange - or will i need a salamander flange??!!!

ok quick question-i am thinking of changing my bath (as mentioned a few days ago) and also want a new shower. I want a new gravity fed one (i have a CWSC in the loft above). My previous shower is so old and I want to put a good quality MIRA shower in. Also the pressure is OK but I'd like it...

i did this about a month ago to my new bathroom monobloc mixer! i bought flexi connectors 12mm to 15mm - the tap connectors screw inside the tap body (both hot and cold) and then i tightened with an adjustable spanner pretty tight but not over tights. then the other end connected onto the 15mm...

ok i get it. it just would make more sense for the diagram to make C and 1 make and break as the connection from the programmer to h/w on doesn't link up with anything and it doesn't make sense to look at!!!!!