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Right then, I'm not keen (nor qualified) on messing about with these things, but a bit more advice would be appreciated in respect of next action. Had a friend out, and he said it was the HE. I've no reason at all to doubt him and he's a good guy, only thing is, I'm trying to get my head...

No mate, none at all.

Thanks for the posts! The problem with changing to thermostatic is that the pipes will need moving and tiles will probably need removing. What a pain in the cherries! Worked fine for 4 years+ til now. Apparently discontinued too. What do you reckon chances of coming across one is?

No isolation valve I'm afraid. The hot supply pipe is hot. Earlier in the year I used to have it on half mix and it was fine, but now at the same setting I used to use, it's freezing (though boiler fired up) so we have to turn it to full hotness which is merely warm. Flow pressure is the...

anyone? Thanks in advance

ok cheers, will bear that in mind. Might just try to keep fixing existing if is going to require new pipework as would mean ripping up an awful lot of floor! Though this is only delaying the inevitable.....

Just to clarify, ch is fine and dandy. Would removing both thermisters be an adequate test ie neither is connected so in theory the overheat control isn't there?

Hi guys, quick recap of my issue. Ravenheat RSF82ET, currently 8/9yrs old. Heat Exchanger replaced 2 years ago due to kettling - not sure actual underlying cause, but also had DHW symptom of hot water, cold water, hot water, cold water etc. Current problem: Hot water for say 30 secs...

It's 15mm. New gas run? You mean from the meter?

Ok cheers mate Am I right to assume the existing piping can just be amended with a few cuts and additions of some 90 degree turns with a little new piping just below the site of the boiler? I.e nothing needs to be ripped out and started all over again..?

...will the existing pipework be satisfactory, and is it likely that the order of the pipes that go into and come out of the boiler will change. What I mean is that on my Ravenheat, the gas supply pipe is far left, then hot water out, cold water supply, heating supply then heating return...

Sorry to bump, but any idea?

This is it with no cover. When turned to what should be it's hottest - it's merely warm. The bath / sink taps etc though are pretty hot! What do you reckon?

I have a combi boiler which at the moment is providing a decent level of hot water to all taps, but my shower is merely warm. It's a bog standard old style mixer shower (two columns, with a supply pipe feeding into each and meeting in the middle where the water descends into the shower hose)...

I'll do just that. Many thanks for your advice and help Richard - sincerely appreciated.

A fairly low ceiling is restricting my height. My current hood is 65cm above the hob (the minimum for this model as per the installation manual). Then from the base of the HOOD to the ceiling is just 57cm. The actual visible chimney is a smidge under 30cm. I presume the ducting s located...

Cheers Richard My current hood is ducted to the outside rather than recirculating, but it's dead as a dodo bar the light switch. I'm also a bit restricted on size, as its right between some cupboards. 60cm is my limit. Can I ask another question. The Baumatic one I've looked at...

Hi there I have a hygena cooker hood extracter (app24120). To be honest, only the light has worked for a couple of years, and never bothered me until now. Had an engineer out to fix it assuming it was the PCB, and apparently not - its the motor which is goosed. He recommended replacing...