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Thanks for your reply. I was thinking of fixing baton between the bottom of the existing drywall and the top of the new drywall, just to bring it in level and secure before taping the join then maybe skimming over it. I think I can manage dot and dab else where. So those fixings on your first...

I have attached a photo of what I am trying to achieve. I have had to remove half of the existing drywall with tiles attached in the downstairs toilet. The rad pipe centres and plumbing has been altered. I have replaced some drywall to the side but the drywall covering the pipes is somewhat...

Put some bread in pipe held back the drip. Fluxed the outside of pipe etc soldered the solder ring couple to extra pipe. Hope the solder is adequate. It was tricky space to get the blow torch in

ok bath tap water stopped running. So need to see if this drip will eventually stop. Attached te hose to valve NO water coming out

still drippig but here's the thing. The ONLY tap in the house that's running water is the bath cold tap! And when I run it water pours out of the hot water pipe. Good job I had a bucket underneath? Any ideas why my bath cold tap is still running water?

well storage tank in loft has drained and water from taps stopped. I currently have a speedifit connector on the end pipe in downstairs toilet. I will remove that and see if dripping has stopped to be able to solder a solder ring couple on. Trying to extend pipe by a few inches before replacing...

Okay here's what I am currently doing. Fed up trying to bung. I have isolated the main water into loft tank. Now I have all hot water taps open running water til it stops. So this will eventually drain both the water cylinder and loft tank? Use a hose on the valve that branks off the cylinder?

This is annoying. Paid £18 for a rubber black bung to plug the outlet hole in bottom of water tank. The instructions say use a screwing action. But I don't want to use to much force as I might break the pipe or something. Surely their is an easier way as the pipe I am working on is still...

Don't need to drain the cylinder? Now I am confused. I thought by turning the water mains off from the stopcock into the house then opening the taps eventually you will drain both the cylinder and the tank in the loft? So if I turn the gatevalve off on the left side of the cylinder that would...

I see. Bung the hole at bottom of tank rather than drain it? So no water will flow into pipe that feeds the hot water tank. Replace the gate valve? Any reason for this? Because if their is drip after closing it then it's obvious the valve is not closing properly so replace it? Hmmm Maybe I could...

BUNG? As in isolate the water going into the main tank in the loft? ONLY if the gate valve doesn't fully close which would be evident if I have a continous drip from the pipe I am working on?

BUNG? As in isolate the water going into the main tank in the loft? ONLY if the gate valve doesn't fully close which would be evident if I have a continous drip from the pipe I am working on?

Hi. The CWS is? Is that the central water system in loft? I have 2 tanks in the loft. One is a small one central heating the large is the hot water supply? They both have isolation valves? So Isolate which one? Oh and thanks for replying :)

Ok guys I have to solder a solder ring onto a downstairs toilet hot water pipe. I currently have a push fit plastic connector inplace but I was told by my plumber a solder joint would be better. The pipe join will be concealed behind plasterboard. I have attached a photo of my water tank that I...

This is the pump? I understand that maybe me turning the dial to 11 oclock sped the pump up? Anyway after say half hour the HW stopped working. The CH works ie ignites the boiler when switched on but the HW doesn't ignite the bolier. So I may have only hot water for a shower in the morning...

Boiler still working so is pump. Lovely hot water. Maybe it was me flicking this switch which looks like a semi dial switch. 11 oclock for on 7 oclock for off. Can anybody tell me if these are fitted with saftey cut-out in case people like me drain the CH system dry and leave HW to auto? :roll...

I bled that. It's like a knurled end. I think it's working. There is pump on hot pipe with a sort of switch. If you flick it up pump comes on. If down goes off. I think this might be a safety switch if the system is dry won't burn pump out? Am I right? Boiler flame is still on water heating...

Gravity fed CH system. 2 tanks in loft and airing cupboard. House built in 2001. I drained CH to fit new radiator and valves in downstairs toilet. Been on going for over a year as I have capped the micro bore pipes from wall ready for pipe centres to be adjusted. Thinking that draining the CH...

It's a double brick wal around the garden. 2ft is going into the ground fixed in with post concrete mix. The fence will start from the wall so can't get the one side because of the wall so will fasten that side to wall. I think the maximum bolts that will fit is 2.