HELP! Fixing drywall to thermalite blocks

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I have attached a photo of what I am trying to achieve. I have had to remove half of the existing drywall with tiles attached in the downstairs toilet. The rad pipe centres and plumbing has been altered. I have replaced some drywall to the side but the drywall covering the pipes is somewhat becoming a pain in the posterier. I have made 2 attempts with dot and dab adhesive. It's not only trying to get the right consistency and applying it to the thermalite wall but having cut the drywall to size getting it to stick and line up level with the bottom half of the existing drywall.
The width of the drywall that I am trying to fix is 1200mm which is the normal width of the huge floor to ceiling lengths you buy at the store. I have just cut the length. I do have existing metal studs as you can see to the right of th photo. So I can fasten that side. But I am also wary of the possible lack of adhesion with dot and dab.

So can I screw batons under the existing drywall so I can fasten the top part of the drywall to and get it level? Maybe screw a few lengths of baton elsewhere? If so what fasteners would you recommend as I know thermalite is pretty crumby. I am not expert with dot and dab. My first attempt I think the adhesive mix was to runny and the second attempt to dry hence wouldn't stick unless I sprayed each lump with water. I need that guaranteed adhesion first time as I have wasted enough time, effort, money and materials. I don't want to have to chip off the old adhesive again as it's taking chunks out of blocks. Why is such a seemingly easy job so hard to complete? I appreciate some urgent advice. Thanks
 

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Thanks for your reply. I was thinking of fixing baton between the bottom of the existing drywall and the top of the new drywall, just to bring it in level and secure before taping the join then maybe skimming over it. I think I can manage dot and dab else where. So those fixings on your first link would secure the baton to the thermalite?
 
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I have just read up on the first link you sent. The minimum timber thickness has to be 25mm. The timber I would be fixing would be no around 11mm/12mm so what now?
 
You can use with thinner timber but not driven all the way home, put a few wood screws into the timber to hold it in place then plasterboard and drive thru both, that way the thread will hold.
 
Screw some 9mm plasterboard to the studs then D&D over the lot. Mixed correct it will stick like nothing else. You can even double dab the masonry part giving you opportunity to overcome the pipes etc. just dab up to the pipes first time around then over them second.
 

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