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yes - as long as you have an earth at the wall

Cool - thanks for that. I actually removed the turnbuckles and drilled new holes in the shorter length.... without checking that they would fit the old trunking - durrr - lesson learnt there!!!

HI peeps Thanks again for all your replies. The trunking houses the supply cables from the heads to 4 meters, so don't really want to replace it I think sparkwright's and RF's suggestions are the way to go in this case. The trunking's in a cupboard so no matter if it looks a bit pants...

But if you don't have 17th edition, then you'll be working to the wrong regs - there were some fairly significant changes As suggested, get an up to date BS7671 and read! Good luck

thanks Lectrician I think the Newey's ones are like the ones I already have, and no good http://www.neweysonline.co.uk/newlec-cable-trunking-turnbuckle-pack-of-10-size-1/1052048948/ProductInformation.raction I do need those central fixing ones......

Hi there Thanks for the reply. I don't think it will be possible to find the manufacturer info as the trunking must be at least 20 years old and filthy - no chance to see any markings on it I don't normally deal with this type of enclosure - can you suggest some major manufacturers to try...

HI everyone I need to fit a lid to an existing section of 6" galv trunking. The problem is that the turnbuckles that come with the new lid are too small and won't 'catch' over the end of the trunking lip (it old, so quite thick). What I need is the old style turn buckle that runs the width...

if it's anything like round here, DNO won't take responsibility for an earth clamp on the supply cable..... so TT it is. As you're got 17th board, all circuits should be RCD protected, so not too much of a headache. Apart from where to site the rod and how to get a cable to it! When I go to...

Where are you buying your bulbs from? If it's Tesco Value then stop! Buying a branded bulb eg Philips, Osram, GE will help as each time a bulb blows it creates a tiny short circuit which is why your dimmer gets killed. Better quality bulbs avoid this problem (and will probably go less often)

Great - thanks. I'll give it a go then. SB

Hi guys Thanks for your replies - all very helpful. I have to admit that I'm a bit useless when it comes to electronics (house rewire - no problem!). Securespark - I'm tempted by the LED lamp, but as it's a light for working on site, I'm a bit worried about it getting broken - no problem...

Long time no visit! Does anyone know if you can buy these separately? This is the type of light http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SDTL38B.html?source=adwords&kw=&gclid=CJP6rN-z7rkCFeXMtAod3wgACA I feel it's a waste just to chuck it away.... thanks SB

Sorry - my bad.... not a great design then!!

can't you just cut a 20 or 25mm hole in the bottom of the CU? (or am I being dumb???)

use these - they're FAB! http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Earthing_Index/Piranhna_Earth_Nuts/

thanks OP for this and to everyone who contributed - you learn something new everyday (which is a good thing!) Well done SB

Are you sure you need to dim the ELV lights? In my experience it's not necessary in gardens. You can use 50/35/20W lamps to get the correct brightness. And standard transformers work fine with the wise controls SB

Might cost considerably more than 3 grand..... :D

Regs aren't retrospective, so I'm with RF - code 3 for non RCD sockets as 'doesn't comply with current regs' and code 2 for the 2 sockets that 'could supply equipment outside the equipotential zone' If you only change 1 of them you can't then issue Satisfactory EICR as you'll still have a...

Lampholder? http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BGLVLH.html