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Sorry for the long post... My next door neighbour has submitted planning permission to remove an existing ramshackle extension that is built upon a party wall shared with my extension, and build a new structure separate from the party wall. I get on well with my neighbours, have no objection to...

I was looking for 40mm thick flags (any size) online but can't find any supplier. Some do packs of 25-40mm mixed thicknesses, but do you know of anywhere that does just 40mm? Mike

I've now done the drainage channels along the house wall, and would like to do this surface with Indian sandstone; it is too narrow to get a car down so is effectively a patio. However are Indian sandstone flags laid on a full mortar base over concrete ok for parking a car on? TIA Mike

Excellent, just what I was hoping for! Many thanks. Mike

They are Victorian houses with 18" solid stone walls and no DPC, and the drainage channel will be below the airbricks. My concern is about water between and under the paving, or are you saying that a cement mix will prevent this being a problem? Mike

I want to pave our driveway (either slabs or block paving). Currently it is concrete but badly cracked in places, and if possible, I don't want to remove it (cost / effort) and it is a stable base. The drive runs between two house walls (ours and neighbours). I will put a drainage channel along...

It is awkward to get at behind the basin pedestal, but the main problem is time. It's a job for my mother-in-law and I'm only here for the weekend with limited tools and parts and no contingency if I can't get it to fit. If it was a simple swap, I'd have a go. Looks like it will have to wait...

the lever etc will stay, possibly cut off and sealed with mastic. It just needs a 'normal' plug hole with a mesh to stop things being dropped in it.

I need to replace a basin pop-up waste with a standard waste with removable plug. Will the lower section of the old pop-up waste (i.e. the bit where the lever passes through the pipe) screw onto a standard waste so I don't need to raise the height of the trap? TIA Mike

Same here. Whole room plastered and looks great. The room is painted, carpet was fitted last week and we've just built the sofas. There's a real danger it could be sorted in time for Xmas. Mike

I haven't used coving but it would have provided a bit of support. However, when I looked closely, the biggest problem was not really movement/flex but was misalignment of boards in vertical dimension due to the non-uniformity of the old joists, ie the boards were flush on the joists but in some...

I prefer to believe people who speak from experience and don't just go on what's written in a book without questioning it. Also I'd rather 'waste' 2 hours of my life so that "job's a good un" not just "job's in accordance with manufacturer's claims". Good bye, Mike

If forum names are an indicator of anything, maybe you'll excuse me if I ignore the advice of an odd looking 50 year old wooden puppet who believes manufacturers are always correct and honest (VW diesel anyone?). All I was after was some advice based on other's experience. As all you can offer...

That's what I read in many places, but it doesn't stack up with the manufacturers advice. I think I knew I'd be doing it just to stop myself worrying, just wanted confirmation I wasn't completely wasting my time. Cheers, Mike

You are correct, I have used 1.8x0.9m boards, but does this make any difference? I could also have used 2.4 boards cut short or any combination if I wanted to. But do I need to support the edges??? But it is important; it's my house and the manufacturer isn't going to fix it if it does crack...

Apologies if I didn't put enough info but I'm not sure what bit you can't figure. There are no ends flying loose; boards are laid with long edge perpendicular to joists with ends cut to fall on (under) joists. All screwed, but not yet put them all in until I've got the answer ref noggins...

I've just plasterboarded a ceiling using 12.5mm board. Joist centres at 450mm (ish- it's a Victorian house), cut edge of boards running along the joists. Based upon various web searches and the British Gypsum site book, I didn't use noggins but there seems to be a fair bit of play at the board...

Ree, Q19 - it's a bit of discarded expanding foam. Not mould or fungus (although that wouldn't surprise me if it were) Q18 - no damp on the chimney breast; the chimney has been removed at top floor ceiling level so there is a hole exiting into the loft. With the gaps around the previous...

Ree, many thanks for the comprehensive post. I'll provide more detailed answers later, but all timber will be replaced and the hearth will be removed entirely. However, you seem to be suggesting a wall plate with joists resting on it (ie as original) but this doesn't allow me to increase joist...

Air brick hole viewed from outside and inside Note driveway and top of joists are at similar level. Periscope air brick recessed into wall and ledge (to go under wall plate).