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A jubilee clip locking band looks like a better solution, but I'll have to check access first. Cheers, Mike

Is that the standard size? When I originally fitted the pan, I just bought a standard one (IIRC from Wickes) without checking the actual size of the outlet. Mike

Thanks, I wasn't aware there were different sizes available. In the end I trimmed a couple of the fins and got it in but if there is a problem again I'll know where to look. However, this isn't the end with the leak. I didn't think to use lube on the pan to connector joint because it went on...

in desperation I used washing up liquid to get the pipe into the soil pipe, but nothing on the pan itself. What should be used?

We've just had a minor disaster when the flexi pipe on the back of the toilet came away. It's a back to wall toilet pan with the cistern in a cupboard. The pan is fitted to one of these...

Good point, there are probably some on the pump inlet. If so, that could explain why the filters on the shower were so clean. Will look tonight. Cheers, Mike

Knowing that it should just pull out, I didn't need ignorance, just brute force! It came out with pliers and a bit of levering. There's no obvious scaling, who knows what's inside? I've put it all back together but still have reduced flow. I'll check the pump and a few other things (new shower...

I meant Big F*****g Hammer. Same principle, different tool! Cheers, Mike

It's actually the later (post 2008) design shown in the link you posted earlier which has a longer threaded retainer, but the principle is the same. Unfortunately the longer retainer means the bit that contacts the unit is even deeper in the hole :(. I have removed the retainer but the cartridge...

Unfortunately not (but thanks for the suggestion). I've got the diagram so know how it goes together, what I can't find is any instruction on how to dismantle it. From looking at pictures of the replacement cartridge, there are three O rings holding the cartridge in place (along with a build up...

We have a Mira Coda shower fed from a Salamander shower pump. The HW comes from a Surrey flange on the HW tank and the CW comes directly from the CW tank in the loft. All pipes before the pump are 22mm, after it is a mix of 15mm copper and plastic. It was all installed about 4 years ago. The...

It's taken some time but the room has been boarded and plastered and I'm about to fix the original floorboards down. Should they be butted tight up against each other or should I leave a small gap? They are plain boards, not T&G. Is two screws per joist (as with the original nails) overkill...

Thanks for the advice to answer questions in no particular order: It will be carpeted. It's stone not brick and to fill all the visible gaps with expanding foam would be a lifetime's work! I'll have a go through. With the plaster removed you can feel the wind coming through the wall all...

We're renovating our bedroom. I've lifted all the floor boards and removed the nails and was planning on replacing with chipboard to get a neat smooth draught free floor (it's a late Victorian house with thick stone/rubble infill walls and the wind seems to get through them into the underfloor...

I couldn't cope with the thought of the old plaster sat behind the new wall, so knocked it all off. As a bonus I can now see where the stones are for fixing the battens. On the internal brick walls I was going to use drywall adhesive to fix the plasterboard, but have seen foam adhesive...

You pre-empted my next question! Mike

Do you mean the stuff used to make partition walls, like this? http://www.wickes.co.uk/content/ebiz/wickes/resources/images/gil/90.pdf Mike

As well as drylining the walls, the ceiling of my bedroom also needs fixing. It's lath and plaster with lots of cracks due in part to the insulation above being compressed by the loft boards. I could just screw plasterboard over the existing ceiling, but that adds more weight to the very small...

One of the walls has a chimney breast standing about 100mm proud of the wall. I thought of making either side of that a stud wall as you suggest, but that would mean the wardrobe would have to be 100mm deeper to take clothes on hangers. I think that would be too much lost space. Regarding the...

No problem there, the room will have no original bits left when I start rebuilding it! Cheers, Mike