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As your ACL lifestyle programmer is now faulty it would be a reasonable suspect for your MCB problem... Your lighting problem either sounds like a loose connection in the CU or the busbar isn't located correctly in the lighting MCB,, I guess you had the busbar out to replace the MCB?? and...

Personally I'd be happy to quote to that spec if I were given it.... however I would question the kitchen lighting... 2 low energy downlighters are not likely to give anywhere near enough light.

This thread just goes to show... that a little bit of knowledge is very dangerous.

Have you done any testing of the circuits that you have connected to this new CU?? It would help if you caould post a photo of the new CU (power off - covers off)

If you've worked out how much capacity you need at the shed then you'll need to work out the voltage drop ---- see link http://www.doncastercables.co.uk/cableCalculator.asp as you will have lighting you'll need to work to the 3% allowance

You only need a label at the switch if there isn't a single point of isolation, which in this case there is.... the main switch! and just whack another rod in; it's the easiest, cheapest and least disruptive option The lowest Ra I've ever had on a TT is 15 ohms.. most are <100, but my...

As it clearly says it is only suitable for "Lounge, bedroom, dining room" then I'd say it isn't suitable for bathrooms

£50/hr inc VAT works out at £40/hr + £25 materials +VAT so if other local tradesmen are charging £50/hr then you aren't getting a bad price

First off, the hot water will be at the same mains pressure as the cold water so if your cold is fine then you hot will be aswell. and.. if the pressure isn't good enough, you will not be able to add a pump as you cannot pump mains pressure.

It sounds like he's pricing up a pressurised HW cylinder.. they are a lot more expensive than a std or fortic cylinder (combined header tank), but they do give you hot water at mains pressure; so your hot and cold will be the same pressure! If I were you I'd really get some more quotes, if...

Yep.... current operated!

That would make them 300mm (12") skirting boards!!!

For surface mounted lighting (LED, CFL or Halogen) you will only need to cut away enough insulation for the cable to pass through! For 10 x surface mounted spots I'd say 1/2 day to first fix and 1 day to 2nd fix + materials.... so as said earlier, £250 should cover it, so long as there are no...

Behind the skirting boards :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

£50 per fitting seems a bit OOT seeing as you are supplying the fittings. However, you say that this is in a sloped ceiling, is it going to be plasterboard - joists - roof felt - tiles? If so then the builder will also be fitting insulation between the joists to comply with part L of the...

My daughter is in year 5 (10 years old) and has not lond "done electricity", they went to an ICT place where they made a simple circuit.. (lamp, battery & paperclip) as in the teachers notes on that link I posted.. ,, but I really don't know what you'd teach a 4 year old :roll:

IMO you can secure it how you like so long as it's not a nail or screw straight through the middle :wink: :wink: :wink:

I asked my assesor about wireless thermostats and notification.. He said that theoretically the cable from the boiler to the receiver is notifiable,, I told him that there is no way that I'm going to notify 12" of surface clipped cable that goes to a surface box

I'd have thought that a Piezo igniter off a gas fire or oven would be better that a Megger... see how long a line of kids you can get to hold hands before it doesn't hurt?! although I'm sure that H&S would put paid to that idea :roll: If you go have a look here they even have lesson...

The ESC have a couple of websites for kids and teachers Younger kids http://www.switchedonkids.org.uk/ and for 11+ http://www.twothirtyvolts.org.uk/ HTH