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I think 15 years is pretty good going for an extractor fan!! Post a picture of it and someone might know of a similar sized model..

Did you replace a MCB with a RCBO??? If so ... you did put the neutrals into the RCBO, didn't you??

I did a job a few months ago 9Kw shower 2kW downflow 28w 2D light SELV extractor fan All fed off a 35m 25mm 3 core SWA submain and an 800KMF with a 50A fuse fitted (TNS supply)... and it only just passed the calcs!

How old is it??

and I would say that for a 70m run you will need more than 25mm SWA if you're putting an electric shower on the end of it!!

I think he means that you are a danger to yourself and those around you.... Get a pro in!

I'm afraid we will need a bit more information... If you treat each dimmer as a seperate switch,,, on you existing one what colour wires go where???

Guys.... I was taking about the old Wylex Standard (Domino) boards!! :roll:

IIRC - If I Remember Correctly! If it's the thermostat and the installer has not left you an easy way to replace it then you will have to lift the tiles... being very careful not to damage the heating mat... Or you might be able to switch the sensor into "air temperature" mode instead of...

Just read back on your posts.. right, you have 2 controllers and mats lets say controller A connected to mat 1 and controller B connected to mat 2 So controller A is showing 40 odd degrees and you swap them so A is now connected to 2 and B is connected to 1.. If controller A is still...

When you remove the controller there will be several wires.. L, N & E supply L & N heating element and then 2 wires which are the temperature sensor remove these and then measure the resistance between them do it on both controllers and compare the results IIRC they should give you...

Before you go looking for the thermostat (should be in a tube burried in the floor).. get an Ohm meter and measure it's resistance... compare both of them (disconnected from the controller) IIRC it should be ITRO 16K ohms

What is the capacity of the Main switch is it 60A or 100A? 60A main switch wylex boards are not rated for 45A MCBs!

BAS is so good he even made the picture a CLICKY link to a retailer... most wholesalers will not stock these switches and will have to get them in

Have a look here for a local Part P approved electrician http://www.competentperson.co.uk/

I see that you understand that you are only allowed to do limited electrical work under Part P... That being the case I'd say that your best course of action would be to find an electrician first and negotiate what you will do and what he will do.

I came from a similar background but as a civvy with the RAF (same qualifications). When I took my redundancy (after 17 years) I went and did my 2381 (16th ed regs) and 2391... beleive it or not while you know a lot of electrical theory it is different and I would suggest that you do the...

:oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: So in all probability there was nothing wrong with your original shower :roll: Anyway, glad you got it sorted.

To me your readings are off... r1 should be about the same as rn,,, but r2 should be 1.666 x r1 for a 2.5/1.5 T&E ring AND 2.5 x r1 for a 2.5/1.0 T&E ring You should really be reporting this contractor to their body,, just imagine what they are doing in other peoples houses!

It sounds like a bit of a bodgit and scarper enterprise... They should not have replaced the CU without upgrading the Protective earth bonding to your services... To me these are the second most important cables in your electrical installation, 1st being your main earth cable. The only wat...