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Sorry should have said, it is being supplied by an FCU, it's just how to connect the feed from it to the lead supplied with the hood, but I guess it's just a case of using terminal blocks or equivalent.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Lighting_Menu_Index/Lighting_Kitchen_Index/Linkable_Flourescent_Fitting/index.html I have a 2m run of cupboards and want it nicely lit, not too bright or dazzling. I'm unsure what kind of brightness these give out so was wondering if anyone here has...

The hood I'm fitting doesn't have a UK plug, it's more like a track-light plug with an earth. When running the wiring in for the feed behind the hood chimney, can I just use a line terminal to connect the hood or must it be a socket fixed to the wall? There's limited space behind the...

I have a row of kitchen cabinets which I'd like to wire up for lighting with a single convenient switch just at the end of the run. I'm undecided on which strip or downlight to go for at the moment. Above the cabinets I have an FCU out of sight, and I intend to wire in a single low wattage...

Aye, as above check with the manufacturer, but depends on what your hood's made of I guess. 60cm seems a bit low for a 5 burner gas hob, it could get very hot at the hood and possibly kill the motor. Mine says it should be 70cm if its above gas, and 50-60cm if above electric I think.

I can't see why the manufacturer says you cannot wire it to a plug based on that rating - your kettle is likely to be more powerful than that. It's possibly for convenience of not having a fuse behind the oven... ? Sorry to hijack, but I also have a similar situation, 2.5kw oven, and debating...

Excellent. :shock: So I presume it was a way of getting the bricks to go further. They probably managed to build another 2 houses on the estate.... I believe these are engineering bricks, they don't have a frog on them. It also explains the reason why the gable wall where the stairs are...

You're not mistaken, and if you look carefully, the bricks on the next course either side of the hole are also laid the same. Also, the bricks are laid on their edges, rather than flat, if you know what I mean... I think this was an exercise in stretching bricks as far as they could. Stuck my...

Here's the other cavity picture. The mortar and brickwork is really bad, not sure if this is how they threw houses up back in the 1930's. It's a 1935 semi in Stockport. I'll give the bricks a quick spray of water and squeeze mortar between all the visibile gaps, then set this brick back in...

Just to update, I've removed the rest of the weak render and have found that it's 3 bricks loose, and you can see in these images, it's ridiculous what the previous people had done to this. They'd wedged a peg inbetween the bricks, and use of wire within the render which you can see...

Thanks mate, that's interesting, so cement render is better to tile over than it would be with plaster on top of render?

Anyone? :?

Would appreciate some helpful advice from you guys. What was meant to be a simple sealant replacement and loose tile repair has turned out to be a bigger problem - isn't it always the case! The problem is around the bath internal wall at the corner of the house. Had removed the tiles to find...

Is this a contest to answer first or answer the most accurately? :D Edit: and I will reserve judgement on the latter... :lol:

Heh, cheers, this will all be checked by a qualified electrician of course! :) 2 metres would probably put it above the sink in my case, I'll get it as far into the corner as I can... this is all because there's a wall obstruction - a supporting pillar - which I'm trying to avoid knocking...

Thanks RF, thanks John, have earmarked a double socket to be converted into a dual box so that one side can be used for extractor supply/isolation, and the other for the oven itself.

Actually, could I have your quick opinion on something else please? I have an opportunity to mount the CC switch for the hob within an adjacent base cabinet to the oven housing... frowned upon by all or does it vary depending on the local inspectors? Assuming its bad, is there a minimum...

Wouldn't that make a blown fuse in the cooker's plug a real pain to sort out? ... having said that, it shouldn't happen unless something was faulty, yes? Surprised at that, it was an electrician that installed the cooker circuit several years ago. Needless to say, I'll be downrating that MCB...

I've just received a single oven rated at 2.5kw. According to the manual, it needs to be wired to the CCU using 2.5mm cable, and protected by a 20a fuse (that's under the section for UK, for Europe it states 16a). The appliance has no flex pre-wired. Before I got it, I was planning on placing...

I used the capping more for the first two points, as it was me doing the plastering :lol: