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We are looking to get a dishwaher. Currently, we have a gap in the kitchen of about 700mm where a freestanding fridge used to be. Not sure if we should get a freestanding or integrated dishwasher. Question is, is there fixings on the sides of the integrated dishwashers to mount an end panel...

Hi I have removed several large bushes and extended a wall and now need to turf the area (see pic below). I need some advice on what is the best way to go about this please. Also, where do the experts recommend buying turf from? Is the turf at B&Q any good? Look forward to your...

Hi Got a quick question about re-turfing a lawn. We have an area in the garden where some bushes have beenn removed which obviously has no lawn. We are wanting to lawn this area, either by seed or turf, along with another couple of areas which could do with seed / re-turfing. We are...

I am not against the trades person adding a mark up to the materials. I was only querying your comment that the electrician could get the same products cheaper. After the mark up, it would probably be cheaper for the customer to get his own materials. Downside to the customer getting his own...

He was a part P registered electrician whose details I got from the competent person website. So are you telling me you do not add any mark up to materials? If a customer aks for 8 downlighters to be fitted into a kitchen, you travel "x" many miles round trip, queue for 10 mins and charge the...

Even after the electrician has added his/her mark up? I had a spark around to quote for fitting some kitchen downlighters. I showed the ones I was after from Screwfix and he said I may as well get them as he couldn't get them any cheaper.

well, it's done. Just need to get the coping stones. Does anyone know where I can get twice weathered 600 x 127mm BUFF coping stones? Know one seems to do these anymore.

Yes, there is a plastic collar which fits onto the drain, then the cover sits in this collar.

Thanks for all the advice, will post a pic tomorrow after I have spent all day laying the first course! :lol:

I thought I had forgotten something! Well, at least it will easy to take down.

I have decided on going with a curved wall rather than the straight angled wall (if that makes sense!). Reason being is, I think it will look better and also there will be no akward angles to cut on the bricks. I have laid some bricks out dry as a tester. Going to start it tomorrow. Having...

I think I am going to lay the footing tomorrow (if this rain stops). In another thread ^Woody^ advised me to lay the bricks in a stretcher orientation for the footings as its only a small wall, the normal 150mm of concrete is overkill. Well. in order to do this I would have had to dig out...

Think I'm going to go angled route, i.e. 3 straight runs (like edge of a 50p piece) as I can then get the coping stones to match the existing wall I am tieing into. Also, being the first time I have built a wall, thinking a curved wall is a little ambitious! :-)

Is this so the capping can be cut at the required angle?

ok thanks for all the help / motiviation!! ;-) Just a couple more questions regarding number of bricks and amount of mortar required. It's more like 10ft not 12ft. So, I work out I need about 85 bricks + a few extra. 27 for the footing - stretcher set along the trench. Then 14 per...

Woke up at 3am thinking about the wall this morning. Will probably have a go myself, will post a pic once complete. Rather than try and get it curved I will do it 3 straight runs (a little like the edge of a 50p piece), that way I can fit the coping stones to each section easily. Also...

Well my first experience in bricklaying is a small garden wall. Only about 4 courses in height about 12 feet long. However, it is curved, see picture below. Started to dig out earlier tonight and am now wondering if I should get a bricky in to do it. I know it's only a rough guide bit what...

Hi I want to build a wall, approx 6 feet in length and only 2 or 3 courses high (coping stone on top). The wall will be built where currently soil is. Was thinking of digging down until firm ground was found, then just adding a mortar base for the footing, probably around 6 inches deep...

Thanks. Never thought about taking a feed from the actual fire. Would probably have to remove the fire though to gain access. Worth a though, thanks. Would it be ok to use flex instead of twin and earth, assuming 2 core and earth 1.0m^2 flex would be ok?

Will probably freecycle it then, although it has sustained some large chips to the edge, but given it's plaster it should be an easy repair. Thanks all