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Sorry i threw my dummy out of my pram :oops: just having a rough day :?

well if thats the attitude of this post then as Electricians (some of us) we shouldnt be telling anyone anything about electrics?! i give up on this, no one had posted a reply to the first post and as soon as I post one every jumps on me :o

My Tv booster is 65W therefore my load drawn is only 0.28A very low loads like i said :D

I have a all in one printer with a fax on it, the problem is i can send faxes but not recieve them?! I have a micro filter fitted with the fax on it nothing else any ideas?

For a TV booster normally you can link of the light circuit as the load drawn from the booster is >1 Amp max. This will save you running a cable to your loft from your consumer unit downstairs. Be sure to fit a 1 Amp fuse in the boosters plug :lol: p.s Use 1.5mm cable from the lighting...

L1 is for a 1 way light circuit L2 is for a 2 way light circuit Therefore are your lights 1 way or 2 way? If only a 1 way connect red to the comm (Common) then the black to L1. If the light is a 2 way it is slightly more difficult :) repost if this helps or not..

The regs say 2 Foot deep with a gravel base for drainage then as you stated warning tape. Plus try and keep it as straight as possible no diagonals :D I know its a pain diggin that deep but if a jobs worth doin its worth doin right :D

There is a regulation to say how close a spotlight should be from a combustible surface. The base itself is okay to mount onto plastic but the light will give of alot of heat and will discolor the conservatory roof and as you stated may even burn it Play it safe and install a normal light...

Are the light 12V ? or 230V type? If the cable from the transformer is too far from light which is very easy with extra low voltage lights, this will have a height volt drop. Above 4% allowed i.e 230V allows a volt drop of 9.2V If you make them a ring system the volt drop will be less...

IP4X means no gaps larger than 1MM on the top of the DB IP2X no gaps big enough to put you finger into the DB "Finger Probe Test" If the gap for the tails in on the top then use a compond to fill the hole of grommet, but if its on the bottom its ok. as long as you cant get you finger through...

You will need to fit an "Intermediate" swich inbetween the 2 way switch. This switch had 4 connections on the back which switches the strappers from your 2 way switch. Look at the FAQ on this site for a wiring diagram.

All you need to buy is a "direct in line" extraction fan, which will go in the loft space linked together with a "Y" connection leading to the extraction vent outside :) Ask your local dealer about the best wattage to ensure the best extraction for both bathrooms

:oops: Haha ive only looked into the holder if there was NO SEAL ON IT honest :D

I am an electrical tester and i have seen 63A 80A and 100A in the holders. The 100A on the side is a maximum for the holder and not always an indication of the fuse rating

Qedelec I hope you don't cut the seals off the "Lucy CutOut" This is illegal!! :shock: On the inspection side of listing the supply type you HAVE to call manweb and ask the size not just cut the seals and look, then on the PIR you write "assumed" . As long as the meter tails are 25MM there...

On a Periodic Inspection Report only a "Sample" of circuits are tested at the discretion of the tester, depending on a few things. A electrical Installation Certificate will have ALL circuits listed AND tested, so therefore its much better than a P.I.R :D

Thats why i said get a 12V fan they can go in the zones most are not allowed. but if your gettin a direct in line fan thaats differnent just make sure the light is 12 V inside the the fan can be 230V as long as its in the lost leadin outside Tip : dont go to places like B&Q for the fan go...

Good :D this also means that if you upgrade in the future the cable will be ok and you can go upto larger KW showers. I have a 11Kw shower on a 50A MCB with 10MM. Tip : get a thermostatic shower, more expensive but better in the long run , when someone turns the cold tap on you dont get...

6MM takes at best around 40A thats not takin into concideration distance of thermal effects i.e insulation or installation reference methods. My recomendation whould be to replace with 10MM, But 6MM is a min if the run is too long or the effects on the cable are too great the MCB will...

Thats fine as long as the cable for the shower is a min of 6mm 10 mm is better.