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again, thats an irrelevant post that still doesnt give me any facts mate.. you're just saying 'because if the cat fails' , which without anything to back it up is just words. The fact is that cats dont just fail.. they go on for years and years. Its not a mechanical or electrical item which...

those are both cop-out answers... i asked for facts as to why these fires are supposedly more dangerous than there non-cat conventional equivalents. I havent seen the answer yet. FACTS please. not scaremongering. Has anyone got any examples of where the cat failed on an appliance causing...

okay , but from this thread all i'm pikcing up is a lot of negativity based on ONE installation and fatality (which appears to be blamed on an installation oversight and NOT a failure of the fire itself) coupled with a lot of guessing about the reliability of cats, which lets face it are now old...

so, the addition of a good and working monoxide monitor/alarm would take care of the fumes issue.. right? Now, is the primary concern for these fires due to the cat failing? But cats dont just 'fail'. They can be compromised over many years yes, but the only reason why it would suddenly fail...

thanks for the advice all.. i must admit i'm a bit suprised about the concern with flueless fires... i thought they were well proved and tested now, or surely we wouldnt be able to get them in this country with all the stringent rules? As for the vent.. i'll hold back until i speak to the...

okay, so i'm getting bad vibes about the flueless i'm sensing :D So, does anyone want to eleorate why they dont like them? anyway, to pick up on the other points. - Yes, were going to get a carbon monoxide detector. - The appliance was fitted by a corgi guy, so i'm sure he knows what he's...

Hi all, just had a flueless fire fitted.. the installer has done the air brick but we said we'd fit the internal air vent cover as the one he bought with him was huge.. now.. daft question, but is there any type of vent that i CANT use? I noticed that a few of them have written on them...

done them today .. blimey those frame fixings are strong. Went for the 10x100 and they did the job nicely. cheers for the advice 8)

okay.. just looked at the frame fixings. For some reason i was under the impression i was giong to use these to attach a wooden batten to the wall, and then attach the cupboards to that... but looking at the fixings i think you were suggesting that i just drill through the plasterboard, gap...

finally managed to get through to bosch technical. yuou were right.. Black is live, blue is neutral :D They said that the markings are etched onto the terminal block, but they're definately not... Anyway, all happy now.. ican finally wire it up after four days !

Hi Maxxy, i'm not trying to mess with internal wiring, dont worry :D I just need to wire the supply to the cooker .. and those are the colours at the terminals under the back plate :D

Hi all, just got a bosch double under oven, model HBN13n5.ob the wiring diagram is missing for some reason. It says it will be stamped on the back of the unit, but they obviously forgot on this one. Bosch customer care wont tell me unless i'm a qualified electrician.. great. Anyway...

Hi all, got a bosch double under oven recently. Anyway, i'm about to fit it but in the manual it says i ought to coat the sides of the cabinet with heat resistant glue up to 90 degrees. Now, 90 degrees doesnt actually seem that hot to me, so do i actually need it? and if so, where can i get it...

okay ta... one more thing if you dont mind me picking your brains.. :D Given that the distance from the wall to the plasterboard is about an inch or just over (bridged with a batten) into breeze block, and i'll be using reasonably heavy cabinets, which of these should i go for...

ah okay.. cheers... a resounding 'no' for fixing direct to the plasterboard then :D Guess i'll take the one i've already fixed down and redo it... ta very much for the quick reply :D

its breeze block by the look of it.. so the best way would be to use something like you said and fixing into the wall behind, as opposed to fixing to the plasterboard itself?

hi all, I need to fix some kitchen cabinets to the plasterboard wall. There is about 15mm gap behnd the plasterboard before the wall itself. First off, i thought i'd be able to use some heavy duty plasterboard plugs screwed into the wall, and attach the cabinets to those. So, i found and...

:D the 45A supply... wasn't.. in fact it was a 45A box with a 15A fuse in it.. Anyway, cheers for the replies all :D

hmm the problem there is that its not an MCB consumer unit, its an old style fuse box (house and wiring is twenty years old)... and i think that an electrician will now not work on house electrics unless they are converted to an MCB system. Is this right?

bah.. okay.. now, onto the next question then.. Theres a 45amp supply which used to go to a stairlift for the previous owners, and its next to the consumer unit.. could i utilise that? And thirdly, can i do it myself or do i need a sparky? I was a wireman for a few years so wont bodge it...