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Sounds good, I did wonder about how both skins would supported, that makes sense. Will proceed with this design and see what the SE specifies

Yep - I probably wasn't making much sense in the post as it was late :) The 6 inch separation is apparently a fairly standard amount, and accounts for any overhang of eaves, and the additional foundations. I'd not expect any wind loading at all with such a small separation, but the wall would...

I found a forum post somewhere that said their SE had specified a couple of 203x203x46 columns and a 203x203x86 horizontal UC for an 8.5m span with similar loadings to my scenario. Not saying mine would be identical, but it's nice to have a rough indication. That would cost about £1k for all...

Looking to demolish my half of semi detached garage, to then build extension in its place (fully detached, about 6" in from boundary) Flat felt roof, shared ceiling joists spanning both garages, single skin brick wall separating garages. What will I likely need to do to make good the wall...

My architect has produced a nice design for our rear/side extension, however it depends on a 9m steel moment frame to support the existing back wall and new side bit. Anyone care to guesstimate the cost of this bit of the build? I suspect the horizontal beam(s?)will be quite large, they're...

They will all be covered by RCDs, yep. And the main bonding will be in place. Am getting an electrician to test the whole installation and fit the CU, so disconnection times should be verified then. It is a gas combi boiler. And it will be connected to the upstairs ring already, so nothing...

Just designing the supplementary equipotential bonding in my bathroom. It contains the boiler in an airing cupboard within the bathroom, my plan was to bond all copper pipes together and to upstairs ring/lights circuits. Do I need to run a wire to the taps of the...

They look good...definitely too late now though! I've cut the holes, fitted the lights, and wired them all up apart from one as I ran out of Wago connectors. First time I've used Wago and I'm very impressed. Nice and easy, rock solid connections too. Bye bye screws!

Haha, they're a work of art. Stood to attention. Maybe I'd have been better with wide angle yep. All I could find in the model I wanted were like 35 degrees beam angle. The model is good because its IP65, Fire rated, and (most importantly) insulation coverable so I don't have to mess around...

1) Yep, 17th Ed. split load CU. All circuits will be on RCD side. 2) All TnE, no singles anywhere in the new installation 3) OK. I've since bought a selection of end stops/glands/terminators to experiment with. ... 6) Joists between ground/first floor. Re-used existing notches and holes where...

In that situation it'd be candles anyway! ;-)

Aha. 7 was an awkward number for that space. As soon as I tried 6, it became easier: Anything in that drawing that might not quite work?

Struggling to come up with a sensible layout for the positions of my bathroom downlights. It's a 3x2 area with airing cupboard in corner. I've got 7 downlights. Picture says it all: Wanted a couple over the bath as it's a bit dark at the moment. Any ideas?

Ultimately...lack of experience;-) If I could exchange it now I would. I'd let myself get all worried by regs (that actually aren't proper regulations) such as allowing 100W per outlet and 3% volt drop. I'd also planned to clip to joists under insulation, mandating a whopping 0.5 derating...

Could do with a quick sanity check on part of my rewire design. To run the upstairs ring / upstairs lighting I would like to re-use an existing boxed-off compartment that serves (copper) pipes to the boiler. There is enough room in this compartment to slide down a length of rectangular 'maxi'...

Yep, I knew about the diversity - but my understanding was that the 12-light limit was already taking that into account. Sounds like that 'rule' is not actually a rule though, so doesn't matter. Excellent :) Upon reading the most recent on site guide I can't find any reference to this rule, so...

Ok. I'd bought a load of Wago boxes and connectors for those purposes as those are classed as maintenance-free. The whole lighting circuit will be RCD protected so that's no problem. Will try to use the first downlighter as the junction then, if I can fit 1 extra conductor in its terminals...

Is it better to wire all light fixtures sequentially in series, or is it acceptable practice to use JBs to create spurs? Specifically, if my bathroom downlights are served by a spur off a junction box in the upstairs light circuit, does that sound ok? As far as I can tell it may just make it...

I'm doing first fix for a rewire in my house and I've run a single 1.5mm cable from the CU to upstairs to serve all the lights on the floor. The circuit will serve 9 LED bulbs in the hallway/landing/loft plus 7-8 LED down lights in the bathroom. Total demand, even if they're all switched on...

The 'intention' is to do the walls and roof myself, however what might actually happen is I wuss out and get a bricke/roofer in. I suppose if that happens I can get a professional scaffold hired, and if I do it myself I'll just use whatever. Am tempted to get a proper 7m tower for £500 though...