Search results

It’s a combi

This doesn’t make any sense. I know any thermostat should work, but, imo, you have removed a link but haven’t reinstated it and reluctant to try what I’ve suggested.

I would say it’s to do with the original receiver then. If there’s an override , connect it back up and see if this works then using the Hive.

You do have Heating selected on the front to on? It might be because the original installation had the RF receiver and is consequently looking for that, but check the temp is up and heating selected on the front first.

Could be anything but on the heating circuit with losing pressure. Will need a gas safe registered engineer to fix.

Looks strangely like a drain rod to me.

Do you know if there’s a digital readout pressure gauge?

No it’s not normal and you do indeed have an expansion issue. It’ll operate a PRV (pressure relief valve) not a TRV (thermostatic radiator valve). As to whether it should have been checked depends on what’s included in their service - seems like it perhaps should have been...

@vulcancontinental @muggles May know how best to answer this. Afaik, it’s best to have one type of system, eg OT rather than mix an match, but happy to be proven wrong

Yes, that worked thank you. When I clicked on the zip file it just asked me what I wanted to open it with. @Unluckyjim that definitely sounds like the diverter valve - yes would need a pro.

If it does it on heating as well, then could be pump, blocked heat exchanger, et al.

I wouldn’t say that constitutes a service Tony. That’s more of a gas safety check, as you say by the likes of BG.

Definitely not 3 as that's Gas, G's printed on the brass. Most manufacturers follow the same layout making swapping out easier. @pete01 - have a look on the jig underneath, might be a picture of a rad and an arrow. I'd put money on the right one being the return near the prv

Yep, just get it seen to asap. Every time you refill, you're diluting any inhibitor in the system, adding oxygenated water to cause potential corrosion, as you mentioned.

The 22mm on the right, looking at the boiler.

Can’t open the file. Best guess is DIverter valve, failed tap cartridge elsewhere or pump failure.

Heating partial load in the book, just another way of saying range rating. In layman’s terms, tell the boiler what Kw rating you want it to run at based on each rad/UFH Kw rating.

How does it respond? Check for the neutral wire connection and check if live and switched the wrong way around

Before that can be answered, we need to know the make and model of boiler.

Polarity check and correct voltage confirmation