Search results

Who carried out the wiring? Did you ask them back? It’s a Y plan by the looks of things, have you checked that the motorised valve is working? It looks like there are 2 wires in L and 5

A quick search suggests you have a Vokéra boiler? Can you confirm this and model?

Some boilers have a function that kicks the pump in on a program to expel air, but I can’t seem it in the manual of yours.

Does the boiler have a purge/de-aeration function?

Yep, seen them left in cylinder cupboards too. Check just above the boiler as well.

Maybe better in the plumbing section? I know the circulation pumps can take out a 3A fuse, but normally does it again straight away. Obviously if a part was replaced and mains live wires touched can do it too. Leaks don't help either.

Not usually, often just the washer If it turns out to be the flush valve, you may be able to just flip it over. No they're not all the same so getting the correct one would be needed. Toiletspares.co.uk may be able to assist you with this. Failing that, you could replace the flush valve.

You could do that and trip your electrics likely with a bang. I said in post 2 you don't have a neutral.

Yes hacksaw them off and use brass screws or stainless steel ones when refitting

The float valve is a Siamp, but the flush valve isn't. Hard to tell, but could be Ideal Standard/Armitage Shanks. It's probably the seal on the latter that has worn/limescaled/detritus on the washer, causing the float valve to fill. It could however be the Siamp and just overflowing. Does the...

Yep, re-read what I said. You need to locate your wiring center, unless you have a combi boiler?

No. Unfortunately you're asking the wrong people (Combi slingers). No, you're not better suited to a combi at all. I'm not sure I consider myself old school but I wouldn't try and sell something you didn't need. Bleeding a combi is just ridiculous and would damage the new boiler prematurely.

Perhaps obtain the services of a gas safe registered engineer? You should be testing after work on a gas appliance. It could be the vessel, could be the prv or both.

Not sure on that, but looks like it's shouldn't be black. Also the bleed vent looks like it's leaked previously.

The one thing I said in the plumbing section that you didn't find useful and disregarded it Glad you've hopefully sorted it.

Yep, or get the same thing. Personally, I would Isolate the boiler from cold first thing into the morning, leave it all day and open the valves back up. If the pressure has dropped before you open the valves the issue is at the boiler, if it drops after opening the valves then it's on the system

I'm no ufh expert, but I'd say yes. Over the period you say it drops I can't see it being the main heat exchanger.

Leaving the door wide open for negative reviews imo. Especially if they advertise as no job too small.

21 in my case but still prefer brass

Honeywell aren't as good as they once were. The receiver may look the same but might not be and may not bind up properly. The one that does seem to be the same is the T2R