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Is the gas pipe one of those invisible ones? :LOL:

If it was pipe sized correctly at the time and there's no issue, then I'd say it's fine, but if you wanted belt and braces, maybe go for it?

All you would be checking for on the room thermostat is the switched live for voltage. Sounds like it could be the timer at fault or a motorised valve if you have one?

Could be a sign of subsidence. I’d await the inspection.

You’d have a WB e to have the one that comes with it, or consider a flapper style flush.

It's been a while since I've worked on one, but think that may be how they work. As long as it stops after filling

No, still not a Scooby-doo about what they want. Looks like a standard recessed meter housing/box.

Could be the motorised valve as opposed to the programmer, it could equally be the contacts inside the programmer. Probably best testing for voltages and movement of the motorised valve

I’m not au fait with those, but perhaps it is meant to be solvent welded?

Not sure why you’re opening the boiler up, but I wouldn’t have thought that’s normal. Stop using the boiler immediately and seek a gas safe registered engineer to take a look. It could be one of the known failure logics.

Managed to get on that site and managed to find instructions. Definitely a horizontal rad? Might just need balancing or there may be a restriction somewhere, which is what I think @Johntheo5 is asking.

Yep, so com and NO. Ideally heating should be able to isolate from the same source

Designer radiator - I can’t get on the site using my dated iPad. However, you may have installed it the wrong orientation or may just need balancing, but if all others are hot and it doesn’t get hot with them turned off I’d say wrong way around.

Why not change the pipework for rigid pipe rather than risk movement from the speedfit?

If you have a 2 wire thermostat, then it’ll be live and switched live, so no neutral, which is what your new one requires. Either rewire or swap for a battery operated thermostat or another 2 wire one. I think it’ll mean potential free, which means the switching can be mains or extra low at 24v.

Not sure what you’re on about. Are you getting a semi-sunken box? @gas112 may know better than me.

Might just be a newer model. Maybe contact the bath store (Homebase/The Range)?

Could be. Maybe if you know the make and model of shower?

Plus one and you're already contemplating a Pegler so go with that

You could do a live test. Set hot water to off, heating on and thermostat calling for heat. Test Earth to 7 on Volts AC - should get 240vac. Turn thermostat down and you shouldn't get much if any voltage. Yes It could be the Live and neutral feed to the room thermostat. You could remove them...