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It's an ancient Bitron effort. The replacement is an Ensign 3407, as discussed here: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/entry-handset-replacement.591695/ The Videx item is of no use.

To install as intended by the manufacturer, it requires a 2 core flex from the ceiling which goes into that tiny little box. No single insulated wires outside of it and no other connections there either. As reality is unrelated to manufacturers desires, there are two options: Install a...

It does exactly what you expect. Holds there, or apply more power and it moves forwards. Apply too little and it could roll back, depending on whether the software has been configured to allow that to happen. EVs mostly have permanent magnet AC motors, all of the windings are connected all...

If people don't have any kind of testing equipment then they should go and buy some. Ridiculous that people should expect to do electrical work with no testing equipment at all. Even a cheapo £15 multimeter from Screwfix or similar would be plenty good enough for basic dead testing.

Photo of the meter has 'Octopus E' on the display.

Yes, it's just a device which connects to that particular 32A socket, much like anything else. It's not a 'charger' either, it's a box which detects that a vehicle is connected and then turns on the 230V AC to the vehicle. Actual charging and conversion to DC is done inside the vehicle. That...

They already have a smart meter. A 35 year old house isn't likely to need a rewire. That fusebox should be replaced, and given it's only four circuits it would be done in a day. What exactly do you want this thing for? If you want to see energy use in real time, just get one of these...

Yes, a buck transformer, but such a thing will cost more than a new light so it's not the solution here. That is well within specification for anything sold in the general Europe area, which would be anything up to 253V. Georgia voltages may not be exactly those, but it's rather unlikely anyone...

It would have been, and if doing the conversion today the more usual choice would be to have a circuit for the lighting, another for the socket outlets and perhaps more for other things if they were required. That could be circuits just for the loft, or extending those which already cover other...

Dicking around with gas appliances when you have no idea what you are doing or what dangers you are creating. Either get it repaired by someone who does know what they are doing, or turn the gas off and leave it off.

Black/red cable went away about 20 years ago, and was used for more than a century before that, so the colour of it reveals nothing about it's age other than it's at least 20 years old.

Don't even bother looking at that option. If gas already exists then use that. Multiple hot water cylinders from one or more gas boilers. You can also fit electric immersion heaters to them as a backup, or to use with solar panels.

There are no new laws about 3 phase or any other electrical installations. 100A in most cases. Single phase above 100A does exist, but is unlikely to be offered or even be available. In the last 20+ years I have seen one, which was a single phase 200A service for a small B&B type place. 3x100A...

Not acceptable, those cabinets are designed to have holes in the predefined places only, which for that one is in the bottom where those holes already exist. There are some which can have one hole in the back but that isn't the one you have got. None of them should have holes in or near the top...

They are a novelty gimmick item, and while they may allow a bit more heat to be extracted from some ancient undersized radiator, the real solution would be to replace those old radiators with new ones of the proper heat output.

Feeling and actual costs are mostly unrelated. Most of the gas used will be for heating the building which won't change with a combi or any other boiler. An ancient hot water cylinder with poor or no insulation will certainly have high heat losses but as yours is going to be replaced what you...

If you really want pipes behind the skirting, then it will have to be built out from the wall by about 50mm, so you will have a ~50mm ledge all around the room, and that is where the pipes to the radiators will come out. Typically used in refitting concrete construction apartments where there is...

Only with a load of extra and unnecessary work. Just get two of these: https://www.toolstation.com/wagobox-light-junction-box/p85587 and put the cable and the white connectors into it.

The tails are the wires between the DNO fuseholder and the meter, and the wires between the meter and your consumer unit. The cable into the property before the fuse is unrelated, and they don't need to send someone to look at that because they already have. The 100A option was cancelled...

If it's a permanently installed machine, then wire it in. If the router can be taken out and used separately, use the socket.