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I would slightly differ with Woody's view inso far as I would cautiously jack it a bit to take out the elastic deflection (ie the spring). We bought a flat as a rental and on survey found there had beena cannabis farm in the roof. Worked out a cost of £1200 to sort and offered to split with...

Scrap metal bin???? Surely you mean your stock of useful bits.

I would suggest that if the problem has only been observed after the bathroom works this is the first place to look. Is there a gap behind the render? It looks as if the place has been battened out and maybe cut away to do the injection as you'd normally see a drip bead at the bottom to kick...

And the weather is nice and clement.

"I think the depth of the rafters that have been suggested is so that they can put a good chunk of insulation in but also leave an air gap." Shallow rafters with insulation between, topped up as necessary will be easier to do and more thermally efficient.

I very much doubt it's "concrete cancer" which is the popular name given to AAR (alkali aggregate reaction) which is a specific and mercifully rare condition. Water getting into cracks and rusting steel is all too frequent where cover is inadequate and/or the concrete is inadequately compacted...

You'll probably be able to get away with a cranked steel beam, but it's defo SE teritory.

As a general rule I always advise people to go for full plans unless they really know what they are doing as it avoids the risk of having to redo stuff BC decide they don't like and the fees are usually a little less. I woudn't class this as structural per se so Notice would be ok. With what...

Just fitted a whole B&Q kitchen with Stevia doors in a rental we're doing up. Very impressed: easy tio fit and they look good. Agree with Aveatry though about hinges. Toolstation do 10 & 20 packs of Hafele clip on hinges

I've got a 3 in 1 set which is really useful, in fact I probably use it as a mini extending ladder more often than as free standing steps. If I was going to use steps for prolonged periods I'd probably get a set with flat treads for comfort though my set has D shaped treads so not bad.

You need a single point of responsibility for measuring and fitting.

Maybe a hook blade to pull the grout out better before you get down to the back of the edging?

That sounds awfully high and the deposit is huge compared to the total. As a matter of interest, whose idea is it to do the work?

I'd set posts first using concrete posts for long life., set my gravel boards in accurately and then screed off them using a tamp with an off set end. Or if you prefer set timbers into the post rebates to use as forms and drop your gravel boards in after, whichis probably easier.

Joists should be fine as increased weight of Celote is minimal. (You want 150mm now)

Learn something new every day!

I'd have a chat with BC to make sure we're on the same page and then use 25mm Celotex adding additional layers to keep 75mm min screed.

Personal lift fitted once upon a time?

Mine is a meshy sort of a fabric: it doesn't impede the dust, nor would I expect it to. It doesn't like wet leaves and I don't like using power tools in the rain.

If you are using BC they will expect decent cllearance under joists so suspended or tmber sat on floor won't work. I'm not a fan of chipboard on PIR though it is done often enough so I'd go insulation and screed. You generally reckon 65 min thickness over PIR though I generally go for 75. BC's...