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Why? Brickwork looks in decent condition, windows are over most of the lead, I'm not in a very exposed position, the overhang from roof above is only a couple of meters away...?? Why would I rip out all those bricks to put them back with only 30% of the mortar? Think I will stick without a tray.

Thanks for comments. I will oil when I stop, thanks. But you did mention cavity trays!! I did ask the architect and said they weren't needed and certainly wasn't going to argue!! Presumably lots of people who do a lean to extension do not have cavity trays?

Thanks for help. I presumed the oild should be put on after? Slow work!... IMG_20200705_145122 by an203888 posted 5 Jul 2020 at 3:59 PMIMG_20200705_145127 by an203888 posted 5 Jul 2020 at 3:59 PM

Shallow upstand can't be helped. Roof pitch is 15 degrees and has to go under 1st floor windows. Any tips to get the lead and tiles closer?

Hey, I've never done leadwork before. Just trying to form it around the tiles. There are gaps between lead and tiles. Prob about 5mm. Don't seem to be able to get it tighter. Is this nomal/OK? IMG_20200705_121628 by an203888 posted 5 Jul 2020 at 12:17 PM

What switches need a neutral at the switch? Presumably some kind if smart switches? Any examples as I haven't considered these?

Presumably it still meets regs to loop at the switch?

Just had a look at a few of my lights on my 1970s house and they are all wired in with the loops at the switch rather than the light. I want to extend the circuit for my extension. Should I continue to loop in at switch or loop all at lights. I was going to look all new ones at lights.

Brilliant cheers. Think the bricky was in a rush yesterday and could have done a bit of a better job but think it's fine. As long as it goes past where the soffit board will sit and supports underside of ladders.

Just below the top or bottom of rafter and is this of great importance?

What can I finish this off with. Can some insulation matting go in here to sit flush with rafters?. IMG_20200613_190628 by an203888 posted 13 Jun 2020 at 8:01 PM

Yep agree. However even if this only lasts 25000 hours that's still around 10 years at 7 hours use a day... Which seems like a lot of use a day. Plus led bulbs are almost as much as an entire unit anyway. What's the alternative. Nobody seems to like these things at all!

To be fair and I know this is a traditional downloight but this is one of the nicest I have come across. It can be fitted in a 47mm ceiling void!! It is insulation coverable, fire rated, has a 60degree beam and is rated at lasting 40000 hours (most seem to be 25000)...

She doesn't want spotlights or wall lights, just somthing flush with ceiling!

Somthing like this - 225mm diameter, 90 degree beam angle, 23w... https://www.ledkia.com/uk/buy-led-deckeneinbauleuchten-philips/5595-23w-ledinaire-philips-dn065b-slim-led-downlight.html?gclsrc=aw.ds& Just not sure how this will look in a domestic setting

Might be an option but anything I have seen looks too commercial for domestic use. All rooms in my house currently have pendants which IMO give poor lighting. Too many shadows and often not bright enough. Love led lighting batterns but only looks OK in garage or shed. Spotlights ain't too bad...