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Do you have TRVs and lockshields valves on your radiators? Re pump speed that all depends on how effective the pump in distributing the flows to all radiators and is particular to the system its serving, generally lower the better for a bit of energy saving but start on 1 and progress upwards...

CAD technician (draughtsman)????

No need to completely drain the system, just depressurise it and shut valves at both ends of radiator. Then the bottom nut can be released and if possible (since you cannot drop the feed pipe down) lift the end the radiator up so the olive on the pipe is accessible and then wrap 5 turns of PTFE...

Can't disagree with that

Definition of not to high? Since the OP re pressurised I guess it's at least 1 bar and 1.5 bar when up to heat?

If you haven't any plumbing skills it hard to give you any advice as Herts says keep topping up till Monday and accept/ deal with the spillage. Friday the kids will have gone and you can leave it alone?

No disagreement there, easy enough to work out wind pressure/forces on external walls and resulting overturn in moments and then confirm any buttressing walls/piers provide adequate resistance

Probably Probably more than a minute but I get your drift

Well if your trimmers are adequate to take the loads to the outer joists and the joists are of sufficient strength to take the extra load then fine, anything is allowed if it's structurally verifiable

Probably/possibly/definitely depending on what your plan of action is to remedy your problem. My advised method way back when was basically taking the tension off the wire by clamping onto the drive shaft with something and turning it backwards 1/2 a turn against the force of the spring, adjust...

So when you have cut all the joists and fitted your hatch frame in whats to stop the cut joists in the 3m span direction wanting to drop down?

Sounds to me that your videos are about completely retightening a spring on the shaft by rotating the loosened spring retaining block around the shaft then tightening some grub screws hold it in position, nothing to do with my method but more than one way to skin a cat, good luck

Something like this perhaps on the other side of the joist

"And here are the wind loading/stability calcs that go with them to prove their structural integrity cos I cannot find any deemed to satisfy paras in Doc A "?

Unless its compressed the pipe at the same time but thats OK because you can quickly cut and solder a new piece of pipe in place ;)

Unfortunately there is nothing in Doc A that gives deemed to satisfy guidance for single skin and pier construction and I doubt whether BC will accept "this is the pier spacing we always do" with out structural verification ( unless maybe with an old school BC officer or the garage is being...

Set your stall out and there is no need to freeze anything. Not withstanding the messing about with the PTFE etc now that you have nipped up the nut a bit tighter is it still leaking from that joint as if it still is you may have an issue with the olive not seating right or being over compressed...

In accordance with Cl 2C6 Approved doc A as basic starter for 10 (190 thick walls) and develop it to what spec you want the garage to be built to

Lost me with grub screws??

Ditto