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I'm interested in finding pro grade tool chests 2nd hand but I'm not up on the makes in the UK, only us-made like snap on. Who are the brands you'd see used in garages, etc in the UK that are worth keeping an eye out for? Are they a good investment compared to buying new, cheaper stuff from...

Thanks for the tip - so would a simpler 5 wire fence be better?

Just regular C or L 8/80/15 and maybe a 3mm top-wire. Basic lighter-weight stuff, all 2-3mm with posts probably 3m spacing or so from what I read online.

I need to put up a straight 50m run of stock fencing (just to buffer our boundary from a single horse in the adjoining field) and haven't done more than very small sections before, bodging it without proper tools. I see several of options for tensioning - gripples, ratchet tensioners, barrel...

Yeah I've tried banging them back and forth. Even with my ratchet handle, it's only just possible to get them to turn... They don't really seem to "break free" they're just really really tight which I did odd that only about 20-30mm is actually in the wood. Unsure what could make them so stiff

I have a mixture but right now I'm using a genuine 5Ah DeWalt fully charged. I could swap battery and double check.

I have the DCF887 about 5 years old and trying to remove some 5x200mm screws it's not budging them even on the highest setting with a full battery... Lots of noise, no turning off screws. I've had to start using a socket wrench with a 10" handle to loosen them half a turn first but with ~300...

Along the same lines as slabs, we used a plinth system on a large log cabin - several suppliers around but we used https://swiftfoundations.co.uk/ You would potentially only need 4 - same principle as ground screws but they work on distributed load instead of going into the ground so virtually...

I did try to access and lubricate but with limited success... it seemed to stop doing it over time however that may simply be the cooler weather, we'll see if it comes back in the summer! So, not much help I'm afraid :(

They're covered in bitumen shingles which isn't ideal, but I didn't say it was an issue to cut them - I just want to know if I will need to or not. If I can dump them in a nice stack this will save far more than 5s a piece when I'm working alone

That doesn't give the internal dimensions... the width and height are nearly all usable space (knock off maybe 20cm) but 3.65m is far longer than the flat bottom part. Any idea, it must be close to 2.4m and I wouldn't be surprised if skips were built around 8x4'? But worst case, I can clearly...

I don't know the dimensions of a skip but presumabing you can fit a full board flat inside(?) then even if they're 40mm with the shingles that's a stack 1.2m high which is fine. If a sheet won't sit flat it's more work but if every sheet was cut in half and stacked like a box of after-8 mints...

We're preparing to rip off ~80m2 of shingled ply roofing which I believe to be 30 full sheets worth originally. Is that going to fit in a single 8m3 skip? Plan is to get it off in the original sheets as far as possible.

Problem solved... saw this on a local FB group:

Yeah I am wondering about 1 Vs 2 pieces. It's looking like bang on 100kg of rubber. I can buy that pre-joined but it is getting heavy even for 2 - roofers reckoned they could get a single piece but then they are used to this. Each side of the roof is 11.5x3.5m and the rear of the roof is hidden...

Our cabin building has a pitch of about 15 degrees and we plan to replace the top deck with EPDB after the shingles failed. Looking at ClassicBond most likely. I know this can be used but had a couple of detailing questions I cannot see answered online: 1. Gutter drip edging fits at 90 degrees...

Except it can't get close to any wall of my house it's perfect. Shame as they look great fun... Didn't realise you could self hire without reams of qualifications.

Btw I found a pretty thorough discussion on this sort of thing in an older thread, if anyone else is following this: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/scaffold-towers-just-how-useful-flexible-are-they.514680/

Although possibly this is getting close assuming you can tweak it slightly to reposition braces and build it on top/around an outbuilding: https://www.scaffold-tower.co.uk/product/industrial-scaffold-tower/ This is the problem case, though I also have two large bay windows at the front which...

Other issues with a tower is that it cannot provide access to some areas sure to outbuildings jutting out... A 2m long tower simply won't fit whereas a scaffold run can easily be fit around it. I can't really access these areas by ladder for the same reason, my perfect solution would be a...